Looking to do a confirmatory beep upon locking with Fob modification - 2015 Mini Cooper Forum
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post #1 of 14 Old 01-28-2017, 06:00 PM Thread Starter
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Looking to do a confirmatory beep upon locking with Fob modification

I used to have an '04 MC which also had no confirmatory beep when the car was locked with the FOB . I was able to access the actuator wire of the fuel filler door and for $10 attached a piezo buzzer from Radio Shack.....lock the door, the fuel filler door also locks and this caused the piezo buzzer to beep .... quite simple ...even I could do it !!

I now have the 4 door 2016 F55 ....no stock alarm so no locking beep .....when i remove the little access door in the boot there is a huge bundle of wires, 2 actually ......but the actuator of the fuel filler door is beyond what i can see so I cannot identify the needed wire .......to really access i would need to remove the interior
panels which i think requires stripping the whole interior and the rear seat ....not worth it ......

but has anyone figured out which wire comes from the actuator, or, has anyone replaced the rear speakers and so would have seen the actuator from the inside...any pictures or videos of the rear speaker removal that may show the wire?

BTW, the connecting up the piezo buzzer was extremely easy...if only i can figure out which wire to use...
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post #2 of 14 Old 01-29-2017, 12:50 AM
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Good job!

I continue to use my ears...the locking doors mechanism is so noisy I don't need any extra info to check the car is closed.
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post #3 of 14 Old 01-29-2017, 02:17 AM
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Quite aarn and eyes, the hazzards flash plus red interior light. You know my opinion on the beep. Should not be allowed .noise pollution. Try a busy hotel car park on the ground floor in the usa. Drove us nuts!i
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post #4 of 14 Old 02-14-2017, 05:48 AM
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Hi, Nothing about this? I am also interested in the beep,because in the city with the noise and with the sun, you do not see the signal that the flashers do. I would like to put the buzzer that you comment on.

No one knows what cable it can be?

Thanks
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post #5 of 14 Old 02-14-2017, 11:33 AM
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Should be banned; noise pollution.
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post #6 of 14 Old 02-14-2017, 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by jeremybingham View Post
Quite aarn and eyes, the hazzards flash plus red interior light. You know my opinion on the beep. Should not be allowed .noise pollution. Try a busy hotel car park on the ground floor in the usa. Drove us nuts!i
I'm with you, Jeremy. I loathe the obnoxious blast of a horn. I disabled that function on my S immediately.

But I have had cars that gave out a unobtrusive electronic chirp that was barely audible 5 meters away. I liked that a lot. It would be especially useful now that my ears are showing the ravages of time. Confirm lock/unlock, don't annoy the local geezers.

Does the OEM alarm system come with an electronic chirp versus a horn beep? That would be awesome.
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post #7 of 14 Old 02-14-2017, 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by umberto1 View Post
but has anyone figured out which wire comes from the actuator, or, has anyone replaced the rear speakers and so would have seen the actuator from the inside...any pictures or videos of the rear speaker removal that may show the wire?

BTW, the connecting up the piezo buzzer was extremely easy...if only i can figure out which wire to use...
If you have a clamp multimeter, you may be able to detect a current spike when the solenoid is activated. You'd have to be very observant because the spike would be quite transient. Put the clamp on each wire and lock/unlock. Most of them should show no current spike, but the one for the gas cap might.

You might also detect a spike if other unlocking-related systems are activated (like the lights or whatever that weird noisemaking thingie is that runs when the car door is opened).

The meters are cheap. Here's one at Amazon for $23:



Failing that, if you can disconnect the wire bundle, probing each terminus with a multimeter might detect a voltage spike.

Failing even that, if you're a nerd you can buy an Arduino and hack together some kind of Hall Effect transducer. Not 100% sure that's feasible, however, never tried it.

Finally, a solenoid being an electromagnetic device, there is a remote possibility that you could manually move the piston and induce a current in the wire, which could then be detected either with the aforementioned clamp amp meter or possibly at the fuse box.

Or you can go to MINI and ask the tech for the schematic.

That's a clever hack you made. Well done.

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post #8 of 14 Old 04-10-2017, 08:43 AM Thread Starter
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ok .....I did a little Googling of 'fuel door actuator' and i see that the unit has one black wire and one light blue wire coming from it ( or going to it?) ....there must be a ground connection too ...I assume that one wire gives power to lock it and one gives power to unlock it. In that tiny access space that i described where there are large wire bundles i do see a light blue wire so there would be a 50/50 chance that that is the wire i am looking for to attach a piezo buzzer that will chirp upon unlocking the car with the FOB.

I would like to try to connect a test light to that blue wire to see if when you lock the car with the FOB if that blue wire powers the fuel door.....if so then i can attach a $10 piezo buzzer from Radio Shack, which worked out nicely in my 2004 MINI.

This access space is tiny, not enough room to stick one hand in ( the only other way to access the actuator would be to remove the interior side panel where the rear speakers are which require you to basically strip the entire insides and remove the rear seats) .....

1) does anyone know if there is some sort of clip that i can crimp over that blue wire which won't cut it but will give an electrical contact point to basically be able to splice into the wire?

2) I cannot imagine that this could hurt anything with the car as if the wire is giving power and i attach a test light to a ground there should be no problem and if the wire is a ground for some reason then it won't do anything anyway when i connect the test light .....does this make sense??
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post #9 of 14 Old 04-10-2017, 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by umberto1 View Post
ok .....I did a little Googling of 'fuel door actuator' and i see that the unit has one black wire and one light blue wire coming from it ( or going to it?) ....there must be a ground connection too ...I assume that one wire gives power to lock it and one gives power to unlock it. In that tiny access space that i described where there are large wire bundles i do see a light blue wire so there would be a 50/50 chance that that is the wire i am looking for to attach a piezo buzzer that will chirp upon unlocking the car with the FOB.

I would like to try to connect a test light to that blue wire to see if when you lock the car with the FOB if that blue wire powers the fuel door.....if so then i can attach a $10 piezo buzzer from Radio Shack, which worked out nicely in my 2004 MINI.

This access space is tiny, not enough room to stick one hand in ( the only other way to access the actuator would be to remove the interior side panel where the rear speakers are which require you to basically strip the entire insides and remove the rear seats) .....

1) does anyone know if there is some sort of clip that i can crimp over that blue wire which won't cut it but will give an electrical contact point to basically be able to splice into the wire?

2) I cannot imagine that this could hurt anything with the car as if the wire is giving power and i attach a test light to a ground there should be no problem and if the wire is a ground for some reason then it won't do anything anyway when i connect the test light .....does this make sense??

You can buy wire connectors that do not require stripping or soldering-- You just clamp it onto the wire and you're done. Google "quick splice connector".

Regarding the blue vs black wire, My guess is that the black wire is ground. That's pretty much the standard for all wiring. The blue wire probably controls the locking mechanism. It's probably the same arrangement as the cabin door locks, i.e. a bistable latch of some kind. I'm going to assume that continuous power isn't required to keep the cap locked or unlocked, so the blue wire carries a pulse when locking or unlocking, and that's it. That would seem to jibe with the experience you had with the other car and the buzzer.

On 2, you're probably fine, unless the blue wire is a data wire (as opposed to a simple power pulse wire). With all the networking going on in modern cars, it could be imagined that the blue wire carries a coded signal to a microprocessor in the gas cap locking mechanism. Tapping into something like that requires a CAN bus endpoint, which can be done but is somewhat complex.

I'm overthinking it. Go for it, you're probably on the right track.
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post #10 of 14 Old 04-10-2017, 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by umberto1 View Post
1) does anyone know if there is some sort of clip that i can crimp over that blue wire which won't cut it but will give an electrical contact point to basically be able to splice into the wire?

Check Amazon for the following part......

3M (TM) Scotchlok (TM Moisture-Resistant Run or Tap Electrical IDC Connector 804-BOX
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