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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys....

Have an issue with my car....i hit the gas and the motor skips and codes...i changed the plugs, coils, air filter and cleaned the mass airflow....still does the same thing!!

it usually codes for a cyl malfunction (P301/302) but all has been changed except the injectors...

Is there an electronic thing that regulates the gas/air??? or if anyone has an idea as to why it is doing this I would greatly appreciate any help.....

took it to a mechanic...he changed the oil and put MORE new plugs in ...340.00 later it still does the same thing

could it be a turbo thing? maybe the injectors??

i just got the car about 2 months ago and this happened about 1 month ago....very frustrating..want my fun car back!!!

Help please

thanks
tim
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
hi...when i hit the gas it skips and bucks and if i continue to push on the gas pedal it will cause the check engine light to come on...it will shut down a cylinder and then i have to clear the engine codes to restore it.....

it doesnt wince but i sense it frowns a bit. ;)
 

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This is an r56 and we're on an f56 forum; very differnet engines BUT having had a 2010 cooper s, this sounds like the coking problem that often appears (imo helped along by far too long between oil changes) after 40,000 miles; how many have you done. A Walnut decoke at uk dealers (most have the kit) costs between £200 adn £400 and transforms the car. Before they got this kit it was a head off job at huge expense! So be careful; if dealers around you don't/can't do it try a specialist eg LOHEN in the uk.
J
 

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£240 at Lohen; http://www.lohen.co.uk/shop/gen-2-m...e-fitted-gen-2/lohen-de-coking-service-detail

Since the engine is direct injection the fuel doesnt hit the valves and hence they dont get cleaned and coke up; no petrol additives have been proven to work nor posh fuel so dont waste money on that! Symptoms are poor rough running, misfires, poor idle/cold start poor pwer and the engine check light! Some have added catch cans to the oil vaporisation system to help slow it down next time!
DO NOT SPEND ANY MORE MONEY until you've had the coking issue checked; i am pretty sure this will be the problem; and it wont be the turbo!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
thanks guys..i will check into that.....here in the US we just call it carboned up valves..lol....one guy suggested sea foam additive directly into the vacuum line and it blows out all the carbon??
 

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I used the seafoam trick in my 2007 Clubman S and it certainly helped, the exhaust fumes and smoke were quite impressive. This wouldn't remove really stuck on carbon though, only a full decoke would clean it properly.
 

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Try posing your question on northamericanmotoring.com. It's a much bigger user base of 2nd gen MINI owners and I'm sure you'll get more info there.

Just my 2 cents, I'm not mechanical expert, but it's worth noting the coking issue really was big on the N14 engine, not the N18 engine your Clubman has (the engine changed in 2011 and addressed that), so I wouldn't jump straight to coking as the issue. It's possible, but considering it wasn't as big an issue on the newer engines, I wouldn't look straight at that as the reason. Ignition coils?
 
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yeah it wouldnt be a carbon build up issue. If you have replaced the entire ignition system and you know you have spark and there are no other faults outside of the misfire faults then you might want to check compression and high pressure fuel. Get a compression test done, and if it has a Continental high pressure fuel pump then you might be able to get the HPFP replaced under warranty if the extension applies to your car. also check the ground for the ignition coils on the back of the valve cover, poor ground will cause misfire under heavy load but will drive fine at normal load.
 

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Sorry yes, n18 is improved in this respect ; i'm not sure it's entirely cured as i've read it may well be a symptom of any direct injection engine, (but hope it is as we have a 2015 Roadster S-but i am sadly f series obsessed so haven't read up on these engines, since i've moved on (roadster is the wife's)); Seafoam is def supposed to help and would be the cheapest way to start; that's where i'd go first. Walnut decoke isnt expensive either in relative terms as you don't need to take the engine apart. High pressure fuel pump wont be cheap if you're guessing; i'd want that diagnosed before i swapped it out. Good luck; as someone said, NAM's probably your best bet.
What you need is the code reading to find out what is throwing up the fault.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
thanks...tough to know....as it codes for a cylinder fault..there really is no inexpensive way to go!! if the HPFP is under the warranty its prob a good idea to have it swapped anyway?? the ground wire idea is an easy check also....just very frustrating ;)
 
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