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Hi Jnotton,

For the console you won't need any additional wiring. The driving modes switch uses the same wire/pin as the DTC/Traction control switch.

You'll need an ODB ethernet cable connected to your laptop and the ODB port located on the drivers side near the door hinge (Should be a flap that can be opened).

I've written a guide for the E-SYS on how to add the 4VA. I'll PM you the PDF.
 

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Hi Jnotton,

For the console you won't need any additional wiring. The driving modes switch uses the same wire/pin as the DTC/Traction control switch.

You'll need an ODB ethernet cable connected to your laptop and the ODB port located on the drivers side near the door hinge (Should be a flap that can be opened).

I've written a guide for the E-SYS on how to add the 4VA. I'll PM you the PDF.
 

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Hi Jnotton I’ve also a cooper s without driving modes I would be grateful if you could send me a pdf of how to add the 4va to my mini ,thanks
 

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Morning Folks,

First post but thought to share my experience as only signed up to sort my GFs MCS out as didn't have driving modes switch.

So i was really glad when read more of this thread to find people managed to code through bimmercode as that is what I had purchased along with adapter.

Quick message to Jimboraver as I hastily read he had successfully coded on Bimmercode. But he kindly pointed on the direction of EhJacks post.... so thanks both.

So last night straight out to GFs car for the test and SUCCESS :D



and a little video


Thanks for the help folks >:D



Hello,
Do these clocks change color from white to orange at night?
 

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Morning Folks,

First post but thought to share my experience as only signed up to sort my GFs MCS out as didn't have driving modes switch.

So i was really glad when read more of this thread to find people managed to code through bimmercode as that is what I had purchased along with adapter.

Quick message to Jimboraver as I hastily read he had successfully coded on Bimmercode. But he kindly pointed on the direction of EhJacks post.... so thanks both.

So last night straight out to GFs car for the test and SUCCESS :D



and a little video


Thanks for the help folks >:D


color changes from white to orange on the display at night?
 

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Hi there i have a question, the mini after 062017 has the switch in the center console.
But where do the wires go, or is it just plug and play after i added the 4VA?
I know that when you have a mini befor 062017 you need to add the ring, but also need to wire it to the BDC. Then code 4VA. Coudl some one help me? Kind regards,
 

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Hi there i have a question, the mini after 062017 has the switch in the center console.
But where do the wires go, or is it just plug and play after i added the 4VA?
I know that when you have a mini befor 062017 you need to add the ring, but also need to wire it to the BDC. Then code 4VA. Coudl some one help me? Kind regards,
As far as I'm aware, if it's the centre switch panel, all the wiring is already there and it just needs coding.

I don't take any responsibility for any damage, I'm not a mechanic. Before proceeding, check the connections on Newtis again.

If yours is a Mini pre-LCI so you have to fit the ring on the base of gear shift. To do the the job you need:
  • Driving Mode Ring
  • 3 normal power wires not much thick
  • 5 faston (you have 2 option or buy the original (61131383776) or try to search someone that can fit)
  • 1 connector (same idea that i wrote on top you can buy the ori 61132359994 - it contains 10 faston - or you can find one that fit)
  • Thermal sheath
  • ENET cable and Esys for code (4VA VO code)
Wirings are :
  • Pin 1 switch --> pin 41 A258*2B BDC (is a + that go on with headlights)
  • Pin 2 switch --> pin 32 A258*6B BDC (negative wire)
  • Pin 3 switch --> pin 28 A258*6B BDC (T_Sport connector)
If you have a post LCI mini you have to fit the button on the centre vertical consolle for the wiring visit Newtis
Thanks for this, I've just ordered the ring.

Do the 2 wires to the BDC need to be a twisted pair?
 

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As far as I'm aware, if it's the centre switch panel, all the wiring is already there and it just needs coding.



Thanks for this, I've just ordered the ring.

Do the 2 wires to the BDC need to be a twisted pair?
First, thank you for you’re reaction. I tested it and as far I can see there is no wire needed for the switch in the center console.

Answer to you’re question is no.
You need 3 wires to the bdc.
1 for the -12v
1 for the +12v (lighting on the ring it self)
1 for the actual functioning.
You can use any wire, I saw some one did it with network cable.
But I prefer 0.5mm wire in the colors, brown, yellow and grey/red. Those are the official colors.
 

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First, thank you for you’re reaction. I tested it and as far I can see there is no wire needed for the switch in the center console.

Answer to you’re question is no.
You need 3 wires to the bdc.
1 for the -12v
1 for the +12v (lighting on the ring it self)
1 for the actual functioning.
You can use any wire, I saw some one did it with network cable.
But I prefer 0.5mm wire in the colors, brown, yellow and grey/red. Those are the official colors.
Regarding the centre console.

I've just replaced the switch panel in mine to add controls for the PDC, which I fitted on Monday and finalised the wiring last night, l and the HUD (when I get round to retrofitting that)

I have replaced a panel that had 3 buttons (auto stop start, ignition, and traction control), with one has 5 (adding PDC and HUD) buttons.

The wiring to that panel is fully populated, so if you have the sports mode on the switch panel, you shouldn't need any wiring done at all.

I'm unsure if a switch panel with the HUD image on the right hand switch will work correctly though.

As for me, now you've mentioned that 2 of the lines are basically power and only 1 is a signal, then no, I agree they won't need to be twisted.

Can I query, the socket repair kit you've mentioned, 61132359994, are the contacts in that the same size as the ones for the BDC?

Many thanks again.
 

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Regarding the centre console.

I've just replaced the switch panel in mine to add controls for the PDC, which I fitted on Monday and finalised the wiring last night, l and the HUD (when I get round to retrofitting that)

I have replaced a panel that had 3 buttons (auto stop start, ignition, and traction control), with one has 5 (adding PDC and HUD) buttons.

The wiring to that panel is fully populated, so if you have the sports mode on the switch panel, you shouldn't need any wiring done at all.

I'm unsure if a switch panel with the HUD image on the right hand switch will work correctly though.

As for me, now you've mentioned that 2 of the lines are basically power and only 1 is a signal, then no, I agree they won't need to be twisted.

Can I query, the socket repair kit you've mentioned, 61132359994, are the contacts in that the same size as the ones for the BDC?

Many thanks again.
Yeah that’s what I thought all the wires are there. So in you’re case iff you retrofitted the HUD and you coded the correct code I to the car then the HUD switch should work.
About the sockets, yeah, iff you order a set (in EU it’s the case) you get the connector for the ring and 5/6pins 3 for the connector in the ring and you can use 2 for the connector in the bdc. The cable for the light you need to connect true a wireconnector on to the original wire (grey/red) in the bdc.
 

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So long as those pins in the kit fit the BDC sockets, that's brilliant.

Yes I'm in the EU (UK)

Thanks again, I'll pull up the wiring diagram off NewTIS in a bit.
 

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Wow, thank you.
It’s in Dutch, but,
from the left, is the BDC and “aansluit pin” means pin position.

so,
BDC pin position 32 connects to ring connector position 2 (brown wire)
BDC pin position 28 connects to ring connector position 3 (yellow wire)
BDC pin position 41 (for the light function) connects to ring connector position 1 (grey/red wire)

hope this helps.
 

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If I'm looking at this correctly, I should only have to run 2 wires to the BDC, and the grey/red wire I should be able to tap into wherever I find it.

Does that sound correct?

Screenshot_20200918-211203_Samsung Internet.jpg Screenshot_20200918-211447_Samsung Internet.jpg
 

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If I'm looking at this correctly, I should only have to run 2 wires to the BDC, and the grey/red wire I should be able to tap into wherever I find it.

Does that sound correct?

View attachment 70541 View attachment 70542
Sure, but why not pull 3 cables.
then searching for a different cable to tap in to.
I would just pull all 3 to the BDC and connect them. But that’s up to you.
 

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I just figured if I came across one closer to the installation point.

But if there isn't one there, I will pull all 3.
 

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Can anyone say of either of these tools would be suitable for MQS terminals?


 
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