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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Front right brakes & rear left brakes were not releasing pressure. My brakes keep on holding the pressure.

Initially changed the brake pads, disc & calliper but still not releasing pressure.

What could be possibly wrong? Thank you.
 

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Hello. Im on my way to my work & I've felt something different with my F56' performance. If I don't apply gas it won't forward. Well, Im halfway to work & just drove it. When I arrived in the office I noticed that the whole brake disc on the right side is very hot & turned red due to continous braking.

My car is out of warranty. I had it checked by a BMW/Mini mechanic (not from MINI service).

His findings were to change the brake pads, brake sensor, rotor disc & caliper should be replaced. Caliper is not available & we waited 2-3 weeks for the it to arrive.

Then everything was replaced. They tested the brakes & noticed that the right brake is still locking & not releasing it's pressure. They also checked the other brakes & found out that the back left brake is not also releasing. Front left & back right are working well.

Their last option is to bleed the fluid & pressure to replace with new brake fluids. They did it & still did not work.

No fault in my car system. They plugged their computer & no fault in the system. They just placed back the old caliper & told me there's something wrong inside, it might be brake pump or brake cylinder. They suggest to bring my car to dealer for check-up. Problem is that my car is park in the 5th floor & I have to drive it down. I'm worried it might damage again the new set of rotor disc, brake pads & sensor.

Now can someone help me what could possibly wrong with my brakes? Thank you.
Hi there! Sorry for my english! I’m from Spain, I have been issues with my front right brake for the last 4 months and going two different mechanics, never went for this reason to the official dealer since it’s now out of warranty, I have a f56 Cooper SD. The thing is when I was driving i noticed that the tire temperature was higher in that wheel ( front right) and i was hearing a very annoying noise/ scrapping from there, always without pressing the brakes and in a low speed. After changing brake pads, brake discs and brake fluids, the mechanic noticed that the brake caliper was not returning properly when I pressed the brake pedal. It was supposed to be due to the brake caliper bracket (deformed). Now he has change it and the sound has stopped and I feel the car more flyaway ( it was braking a bit all the time). Also the tire temperature matches with the left one ( I activated to shown the temperatures with the pressure by OBD) so I can check it. The problem seems to be solved ✌🏻 I hope this could help you before wasting more money.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi there! Sorry for my english! I’m from Spain, I have been issues with my front right brake for the last 4 months and going two different mechanics, never went for this reason to the official dealer since it’s now out of warranty, I have a f56 Cooper SD. The thing is when I was driving i noticed that the tire temperature was higher in that wheel ( front right) and i was hearing a very annoying noise/ scrapping from there, always without pressing the brakes and in a low speed. After changing brake pads, brake discs and brake fluids, the mechanic noticed that the brake caliper was not returning properly when I pressed the brake pedal. It was supposed to be due to the brake caliper bracket (deformed). Now he has change it and the sound has stopped and I feel the car more flyaway ( it was braking a bit all the time). Also the tire temperature matches with the left one ( I activated to shown the temperatures with the pressure by OBD) so I can check it. The problem seems to be solved ✌🏻 I hope this could help you before wasting more money.

Hello. Thank you for your reply. Do you mean the problem is the brake caliper bracket?

In my case the front right & rear left brakes are not releasing after applying brakes. Do you think both of those caliper brackets are deformed?
 

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I seem to recall from something I read years ago that the brakes on cars are designed so that the diagonal corners (front right and rear left for example) work in conjunction with each other. Not sure why, or how, maybe safety related.
Might explain why your brakes on front right and rear left are both giving problems. Might be a component operating on both sets.
 

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From a safety perspective maybe the brake fluid on each diagonal pairing is separated on different circuits so that if you have a catastrophic loss of fluid on one wheel you still have 2 braked wheels. Or has modern technology rendered all that obsolete?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I seem to recall from something I read years ago that the brakes on cars are designed so that the diagonal corners (front right and rear left for example) work in conjunction with each other. Not sure why, or how, maybe safety related.
Might explain why your brakes on front right and rear left are both giving problems. Might be a component operating on both sets.

The mechanic who changed my brake pads, disc & sensor said something like this. That's why front right & rear left are not releasing it's pressure. Hopefully there might be wrong with the lines connected to them & not with a major parts. Thank you for your reply.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
From a safety perspective maybe the brake fluid on each diagonal pairing is separated on different circuits so that if you have a catastrophic loss of fluid on one wheel you still have 2 braked wheels. Or has modern technology rendered all that obsolete?
Not really sure. For the brake fluids there are no sign of leak. They also completely changed all the brake fluids & still not working.
 

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It sounds like a sticking valve. You are getting pressure from the pedal but the fluid cannot move back when the pedal is released. If you Google BMW Mini Brake Component Schematic it comes up with some pictures that show all the connected components. It might be possible to figure out from them where the blockage might be.
 

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In years past in my 1960 Austin Mini I had the the problem of the calipers not completely releasing causing the pads to drag on the rotor and overheat. Long story short the flex rubber brake lines were faulty. Pressure from the master cylinder could pass through and push out the caliper pistons but then the fluid could not flow back to allow the pistons to retract. In my case the lines were probably bad due to age. Could be this cheap fix will cure your problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
It sounds like a sticking valve. You are getting pressure from the pedal but the fluid cannot move back when the pedal is released. If you Google BMW Mini Brake Component Schematic it comes up with some pictures that show all the connected components. It might be possible to figure out from them where the blockage might be.

Yup most likely the fluid cannot go back to release the pressure. Thanks for the informations.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
In years past in my 1960 Austin Mini I had the the problem of the calipers not completely releasing causing the pads to drag on the rotor and overheat. Long story short the flex rubber brake lines were faulty. Pressure from the master cylinder could pass through and push out the caliper pistons but then the fluid could not flow back to allow the pistons to retract. In my case the lines were probably bad due to age. Could be this cheap fix will cure your problem.
Hoping only these lines are faulty & it will be cheaper to replace. Sounds like we have the same problem. Thank you for sharing.
 

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I had the same problem about a month ago, I’m a BMW/MINi certified technician in FL. The braking circuits are divided in 2 parts on F-series Minis and BMW; brake circuit 1 front left/rear right, brake circuit 2 front right/ real left. The junction point is inside the dsc unit. Your problem might be caused by a mechanical problem inside the DSC or an electrical one on the electronics inside the DSC. The most cost effective repair is to either buy a whole unit and perform a DSC activation bleeding only possible with BMW Ista. The other option is to use your original electronics with an outsourced mechanical unit(junkyard) and perform the same procedure. With step 1 you’ll need to program the control unit. With step 2 you’ll only need to perform the bleeding procedure since the electronics are already vin coded to your car. I suggest doing the whole unit since mine was fine with just the valve block, but I can’t assure yours does not have an electrical issue inside the DSC without testing.
Just to be clear I first noticed my issue cause my car was braking and pulling left on the highway; really scary situation. Also when letting go of the gas really fast to shift up. Hope this helps everyone with this problem. Please reply with questions or if this helps you out!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I had the same problem about a month ago, I’m a BMW/MINi certified technician in FL. The braking circuits are divided in 2 parts on F-series Minis and BMW; brake circuit 1 front left/rear right, brake circuit 2 front right/ real left. The junction point is inside the dsc unit. Your problem might be caused by a mechanical problem inside the DSC or an electrical one on the electronics inside the DSC. The most cost effective repair is to either buy a whole unit and perform a DSC activation bleeding only possible with BMW Ista. The other option is to use your original electronics with an outsourced mechanical unit(junkyard) and perform the same procedure. With step 1 you’ll need to program the control unit. With step 2 you’ll only need to perform the bleeding procedure since the electronics are already vin coded to your car. I suggest doing the whole unit since mine was fine with just the valve block, but I can’t assure yours does not have an electrical issue inside the DSC without testing.
Just to be clear I first noticed my issue cause my car was braking and pulling left on the highway; really scary situation. Also when letting go of the gas really fast to shift up. Hope this helps everyone with this problem. Please reply with questions or if this helps you out!
Thank you for your information. Now I can understand that these brakes have 2 parts. My car is still in the shop & waiting for the ABS.

May I know if DSC is a different parts from ABS or is it component of the ABS? Thank you sir.
 

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The DSC is the same, it takes care of Antilock Brake System but it does a lot more on this cars like brake hold on hills, rotor surface prepping for braking and the list goes on. . .
 

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Thank you for your information. Now I can understand that these brakes have 2 parts. My car is still in the shop & waiting for the ABS.

May I know if DSC is a different parts from ABS or is it component of the ABS? Thank you sir.
For future visitors reference , did the ABS module fixed your problem?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Potchsv
Did you ever resolve your braking problem ??

Hello. Unfortunately, not yet. Dealer here cannot find the ABS PUMP. Their suppliers were having hard time to find the parts. They don't even have the test part so it will be very risky also for me to buy a brand new online, then ending up it's not the parts needed to be replaced.

Can someone help me with the parts? I'm from the Philippines by the way. My car is Mini 3 door hatchback cooper S. The part number I'm looking for is 34506897145 . Used will also be fine but in good condition. Thank you.
 

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I had the same problem about a month ago, I’m a BMW/MINi certified technician in FL. The braking circuits are divided in 2 parts on F-series Minis and BMW; brake circuit 1 front left/rear right, brake circuit 2 front right/ real left. The junction point is inside the dsc unit. Your problem might be caused by a mechanical problem inside the DSC or an electrical one on the electronics inside the DSC. The most cost effective repair is to either buy a whole unit and perform a DSC activation bleeding only possible with BMW Ista. The other option is to use your original electronics with an outsourced mechanical unit(junkyard) and perform the same procedure. With step 1 you’ll need to program the control unit. With step 2 you’ll only need to perform the bleeding procedure since the electronics are already vin coded to your car. I suggest doing the whole unit since mine was fine with just the valve block, but I can’t assure yours does not have an electrical issue inside the DSC without testing.
Just to be clear I first noticed my issue cause my car was braking and pulling left on the highway; really scary situation. Also when letting go of the gas really fast to shift up. Hope this helps everyone with this problem. Please reply with questions or if this helps you out!
I have a 2016 Mini with the RF and LR calipers locking up. The car also occasionally swerves when driving in the rain (this problem started before any issues with the breaks were noticed). After reading your comment I wondered if it has something to do with the DSC. The mechanic I talked to said master cylinder could cause these problems and is a cheaper fix, but I am not sure if this is the proper fix as the break pedal does not feel spongy at all. I know it is hard to diagnose over a computer but would a master cylinder cause the calipers to lock up and the car to swerve in the rain, or is that sound more like a DSC issue?
 
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