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Well guys, as promised, this is MY guide to detailing. What regime works for me and what products I've found to work. This post is not designed to be ripped to bits and criticised but merely to help with questions I find many of you have. Obviously I'm not going to be held responsible for anything that may go wrong either!
Here's to many happy detailing days ......
Step-by-step Car Detailing/Maintenance Guide(part one!)
Wash steps for a full detail(omit steps 7, 8 and 9 for maintenance washes)
In brief:
1. CleanWheels
2. Snowfoam
3. Rinse
4. Wash(using wash mitt) including door shuts, boot opening and the panel gaps aroundthe bonnet (lift bonnet for this)
5. Rinsewith an open ended hose
6. Dry(with soft micro fibre cloth and Quick Detailer)
7. Clay(if required) and dry each panel as you go along (including tar and iron filingremoval)
8. Polish(either by hand or machine)
9. Sealantor wax (you can use one or the other, or both. NB if using both then it’ssealant first then wax. You cannot putsealant over a wax – it won’t adhere properly due to the oils in the wax)
10. Quickdetailer (if required)
These four steps can be done anytimebetween 6-10, whilst waiting for wax to cure for example:
11. Windows
12. Sealingand protecting alloys
13. Applyingtyre dressing
14. Cleanand polish exhaust tail pipes
15. Engine(for those with OCD J
16. Interior(this can be done before you start or at the end)
IN FULL
1. CleanWheels: This is done first as youdon’t want to splatter nice, clean paintwork with dirt and mud from thewheels/tyres. Power wash down the alloysfirst, removing as much brake dust as you can. If you chose to use a wheel cleaner then make sure it isn’t acidic asthis can cause corrosion to the alloys especially, but not only, if they havebeen scuffed. Once alloys have beensealed and protected they should be no need to use an alloy cleaner. A power wash and then shampoo and water isall that is required during the durability period of your chosen product. Use two buckets, one for rinsing your brushesas you use them and one containing shampoo and water.
There arevarious brushes on the market to help make wheel cleaning easier. Brushes for front of spokes, backs of alloys,nooks and crannies like brake callipers, wheel bolts, wheel arches and also foractual tyres.
EZ Brush (rear or spokes)
Wheel Woolies (from Polished Bliss)
Tyre cleaning brush
Wheel Schmitt (for wheel arches)
Swissvax Detailing brush
Buckets
2. Snow foam: In my opinion, snowfoamingis THE most important part of washing the car. It helps to remove/soften contaminants such as tree sap, bird mess, deadflies etc without the need to rub at the paintwork. Rubbing induces swirls and scratches. Leave to dwell as long as stated for yourparticular product. Some are longer thanothers.
Foam lance
Karcher Power washer
Chemicals Guys No Touch Snowfoam
ValetPro pH Neutral Snowfoam
3. Rinsethe snow foam: It’s very important to make sure that the snowfoam isthoroughly rinsed from the car using a power washer. It is an important step of the car cleaningprocess and helps remove the excess grime on the car. The more that is reduced at this stage, theless ‘contact’ you will have when actual washing.
4. Washing(important to use the correct dilution for your shampoo as the wrong dilutioncan strip your wax/sealant): The two-bucket method is a must here. Once containing shampoo and water, the other(a guard bucket) containing water just for rinsing. This helps to eliminate scratches from grit,etc. Starting with the roof, work fromtop to bottom of the car – roof, bonnet, rear, sides etc. Maybe use a different wash mitt for thelowest panels of your car. Wash a panelat a time and rinse your mitt, then onto the next panel. Don’t forget the door shuts, including theboot and panel gaps where the bonnet is (lift the bonnet to get into theseareas).
Chemical guys Citrus Wash and Gloss
Werkstat Autobody wash (same as for wheels)
AM Details Bubbles
2 buckets – one with a grit guard bottom (the rinsebucket)
Dodo Supernatural Wash Mitt
AM Details Lambswool T Mitt
Swisswaz Waschpudel
5. Rinsing: Rinsing with an open ended hose leavesless standing water on the car making it quicker and easier to dry, especiallyonce the car is protected.
6. Drying:Use a very good quality, ultra soft microfiber drying towel to dry yourcar. A poor quality drying towel willinflict swirls or scratches on your car. You should attempt to pat dry rather than drag the towel over thecar. It’s also useful to use a QuickDetailer when drying as this help to repel the water and helps stop streakingand watermarks. Spray a couple of squirts on a panel and then pat dry. Don’t forget to dry your door shuts, boot andthose bits under the bonnet that you washed. Remember to dry your alloys too at this point but with a separate cloth.It’s worth having specific cloths for specific tasks, don’t swap andchange. If you drop a towel on the floorDO NOT use. Use a clean one instead.
Monza Ultra Soft fur drying cloth
GTechniq Zero Scratch Microfibre drying towel
Chemical Guys Synthetic Quick Detailer
Poorguys QD+
Metro Vac Air Force Blaster (This thing is amazing, yetOCD……)
7. Claying(done 2-3 times a year): If you want the best finish possible for your car,then claying is the most important part, following by polishing. Claying will remove environmentalcontaminants such as tree sap, bird mess which can seep into the paint if notremoved promptly, ground in tar deposits, etc. If you run your hand over the paintwork and it feels rough, this is thecontaminants. You can perhaps hear theroughness too! On a clayed car, the paintworkis silky smooth and becomes glass like. There are different grades of clay, ultra fine to aggressive. An ultra fine one will be sufficient in mostcases and will not mark your car if used correctly. Very little pressure is needed but plenty oflube is required. Some clay kits comewith a clay lube. This is basically amix of Quick Detailer and water. In mostcases especially ultra fine clays, you can use only water as a lube. You cancut a clay bar into 2-3 pieces and just keep refolding as you do eachpanel (put clay in a pot of warm waterto help make it pliable, especially in cold weather. Spray a panel (and the clay) with lube thenclay in straight lines until you stop feeling the clay is picking anything up. Ifyou drop the claybar on the ground, throw it away, DO NOT use again. Run your hand over the paint and you shouldfeel a very noticeable difference. Dryeach panel as you go with an ultra soft micro fibre towel.
Detarring:At this stage I will also be removing any tar deposits on the paint or alloysusing a specific product. One that I canhighly recommend is Autosmart Tardis. Spray on, wait a couple of minutes for it towork and then wipe off using a soft microfibre pad/cloth. Then rinse each panel again. Warning– if you use this on your car that is already waxed or sealed, then it willremove it and a top up of wax or sealant will be required on the necessarypanels. THROW AWAY THE MICROFIBRE CLOTHTHAT YOU HAVE USED TO WIPE IT OFF – DON’T PUT IT IN THE WASHINE MACHINE – ITWILL STINK!
Removal ofIron Contaminants: Another importantstep is removing iron filings/rust spots. These are particularly noticeable onwhite paint but all cars will have them. Claying does not remove these, just merely takes the top off them butleaves them embedded in the paint. Irecommend Autofinesse Iron Out forthis. You spray it on a panel at a time,leave for a couple of minutes and then stand back and watch your car turnpurple! Don’t worry, all this is doingis showing the amount of iron filings/rust spots on your car and the IronX isdissolving it from the paint. After twominutes, agitate with a clean microfiber cloth and then rinse off and drydown. Do this on each panel. Avoid the rubber trims if you can. THISSTUFF REALLY STINKS. Do not reusethe cloth.
Meguirs Smooth Surface Clay/Clay lube (or water in aspray bottle)
Dodo Juice Basic of Bling Clay/Lube
8. Polish: Polishing adds shine and reflectivity toa car’s paintwork. It can also removeswirls, scratches, oxidation depending on the ‘cutting’ ability of the polishbeing used. These polishes should beused with caution as they do remove a layer of paint. Unless you have something called a DepthGauge the usage should be limited. Other polishes contain fillers which meansthat they mask the swirls or scratches temporarily. It will look like they have beenremoved. In about a month, they willreappear.
By Hand: There are some polishes on the market thatcan remove swirls/scratches by hand. Formore serious defects, machine polishes are necessary. Autoglym’s Super Resin Polish is a very wellknow ‘filling’ polish and it does add a brilliant shine. GTechniq’s P1 can be used by hand and willpermanently remove swirls/scratches but like all things, it is hard work byhand. P1 can be used by machine foroptimum correction.
Autoglym Super Resin Polish (fillers)
Werkstat Prime Polish (deep cleanser, no correction)
Chemical Guys EZ Cremem Glaze (no fillers)
Dodo Juice Lime Prime Pre Wax Cleanser (some fillers)
9. Sealantor Wax (or both): You can use one or the other or both. NBif using both, then it’s sealant first then wax. You cannot put a sealant over wax –it won’tadhere to the surface due to the oils in the wax. A sealant or wax provides protection to thecar’s paintwork. A lot of people thinkthe shine on the car comes from the wax (or sealant) but this is not true. That is the job of the polish or prewax cleanser. A wax seals in the shine and also providesprotection from the elements, rain, UV protection, fallout etc. I apply a wax or sealant to the door shuts,kick plates, around the boot openings. It is up to you to choose whether you go for wax or sealant. Both provide exactly the sample protectionbut both offer different looks for the paint. Sealants provide a more glassy, reflective finish and enhance the flakein metallic or pearlescent paints and are said to repel dirt better thanwaxes. Waxes on the other hand provide awarmer look, with depth but can tend to mute the metallic flake. Some waxes can also provide a ‘wet look’ tothe paint. It depends entirely on thesort of look you want to achieve. Eachalso offer different lengths of durability. Some can last 8-9 months but some can last only a matter of weeks. Again the most important thing is to rememberto use ultra soft micro fibre cloths when applying (sealants) and buffing offsealants and waxes. Quality is allimportant. An applicator pad is normallyused for applying waxes and very often goes on better if the pad is moistenedslightly. The main thing to remember isless is more. Apply as thinly as possibleas this makes it much easier to removed. If it’s caked on then you can induce marring to the paint as you will beapplying more pressure than you need to. Multiple layers of wax or sealant can be applied. For wax, two layers is sufficient. For sealant, up to six layers can be applies,or even more if you wish.
Waxes:
Dodo Juice waxes – any (varying durability but usually 3months, some more)
Zymol Concours (gives a phenomenal wet look but veryexpensive (2-3months durability)
Dodo Juice Supernatural Premium Wax
Collinite 915 Marque D’Excellence
Sealants:
Werkstat Acrylic Jett (6months durability with 5-6layers)
Chemical Guys Jetseal 109 (2-3months durability)
GTechniq C2 (8-9months durability)
10. QuickDetailer: A quick detailer (QD) is usedto add an extra layer of shine. Theytend to be used after subsequent washes following a wax or sealant beingused. It prolongs the life of thewax/sealant and also gives that ‘just waxed’ look. After a normal wash, when the car has beendried, apply the QD (a couple of squirts per panel then buff with a clean softmicrofibre cloth) and you are done. It’salso very useful on windows too.
Dodo Juice Red Mist Tropical (use this about 3 weeksafter you’ve waxed, onwards), smells amazing!
Werkstat Gloss
Poorboys QD+
(Continue with parttwo………)
Here's to many happy detailing days ......
Step-by-step Car Detailing/Maintenance Guide(part one!)
Wash steps for a full detail(omit steps 7, 8 and 9 for maintenance washes)
In brief:
1. CleanWheels
2. Snowfoam
3. Rinse
4. Wash(using wash mitt) including door shuts, boot opening and the panel gaps aroundthe bonnet (lift bonnet for this)
5. Rinsewith an open ended hose
6. Dry(with soft micro fibre cloth and Quick Detailer)
7. Clay(if required) and dry each panel as you go along (including tar and iron filingremoval)
8. Polish(either by hand or machine)
9. Sealantor wax (you can use one or the other, or both. NB if using both then it’ssealant first then wax. You cannot putsealant over a wax – it won’t adhere properly due to the oils in the wax)
10. Quickdetailer (if required)
These four steps can be done anytimebetween 6-10, whilst waiting for wax to cure for example:
11. Windows
12. Sealingand protecting alloys
13. Applyingtyre dressing
14. Cleanand polish exhaust tail pipes
15. Engine(for those with OCD J
16. Interior(this can be done before you start or at the end)
IN FULL
1. CleanWheels: This is done first as youdon’t want to splatter nice, clean paintwork with dirt and mud from thewheels/tyres. Power wash down the alloysfirst, removing as much brake dust as you can. If you chose to use a wheel cleaner then make sure it isn’t acidic asthis can cause corrosion to the alloys especially, but not only, if they havebeen scuffed. Once alloys have beensealed and protected they should be no need to use an alloy cleaner. A power wash and then shampoo and water isall that is required during the durability period of your chosen product. Use two buckets, one for rinsing your brushesas you use them and one containing shampoo and water.
There arevarious brushes on the market to help make wheel cleaning easier. Brushes for front of spokes, backs of alloys,nooks and crannies like brake callipers, wheel bolts, wheel arches and also foractual tyres.
EZ Brush (rear or spokes)
Wheel Woolies (from Polished Bliss)
Tyre cleaning brush
Wheel Schmitt (for wheel arches)
Swissvax Detailing brush
Buckets
2. Snow foam: In my opinion, snowfoamingis THE most important part of washing the car. It helps to remove/soften contaminants such as tree sap, bird mess, deadflies etc without the need to rub at the paintwork. Rubbing induces swirls and scratches. Leave to dwell as long as stated for yourparticular product. Some are longer thanothers.
Foam lance
Karcher Power washer
Chemicals Guys No Touch Snowfoam
ValetPro pH Neutral Snowfoam
3. Rinsethe snow foam: It’s very important to make sure that the snowfoam isthoroughly rinsed from the car using a power washer. It is an important step of the car cleaningprocess and helps remove the excess grime on the car. The more that is reduced at this stage, theless ‘contact’ you will have when actual washing.
4. Washing(important to use the correct dilution for your shampoo as the wrong dilutioncan strip your wax/sealant): The two-bucket method is a must here. Once containing shampoo and water, the other(a guard bucket) containing water just for rinsing. This helps to eliminate scratches from grit,etc. Starting with the roof, work fromtop to bottom of the car – roof, bonnet, rear, sides etc. Maybe use a different wash mitt for thelowest panels of your car. Wash a panelat a time and rinse your mitt, then onto the next panel. Don’t forget the door shuts, including theboot and panel gaps where the bonnet is (lift the bonnet to get into theseareas).
Chemical guys Citrus Wash and Gloss
Werkstat Autobody wash (same as for wheels)
AM Details Bubbles
2 buckets – one with a grit guard bottom (the rinsebucket)
Dodo Supernatural Wash Mitt
AM Details Lambswool T Mitt
Swisswaz Waschpudel
5. Rinsing: Rinsing with an open ended hose leavesless standing water on the car making it quicker and easier to dry, especiallyonce the car is protected.
6. Drying:Use a very good quality, ultra soft microfiber drying towel to dry yourcar. A poor quality drying towel willinflict swirls or scratches on your car. You should attempt to pat dry rather than drag the towel over thecar. It’s also useful to use a QuickDetailer when drying as this help to repel the water and helps stop streakingand watermarks. Spray a couple of squirts on a panel and then pat dry. Don’t forget to dry your door shuts, boot andthose bits under the bonnet that you washed. Remember to dry your alloys too at this point but with a separate cloth.It’s worth having specific cloths for specific tasks, don’t swap andchange. If you drop a towel on the floorDO NOT use. Use a clean one instead.
Monza Ultra Soft fur drying cloth
GTechniq Zero Scratch Microfibre drying towel
Chemical Guys Synthetic Quick Detailer
Poorguys QD+
Metro Vac Air Force Blaster (This thing is amazing, yetOCD……)
7. Claying(done 2-3 times a year): If you want the best finish possible for your car,then claying is the most important part, following by polishing. Claying will remove environmentalcontaminants such as tree sap, bird mess which can seep into the paint if notremoved promptly, ground in tar deposits, etc. If you run your hand over the paintwork and it feels rough, this is thecontaminants. You can perhaps hear theroughness too! On a clayed car, the paintworkis silky smooth and becomes glass like. There are different grades of clay, ultra fine to aggressive. An ultra fine one will be sufficient in mostcases and will not mark your car if used correctly. Very little pressure is needed but plenty oflube is required. Some clay kits comewith a clay lube. This is basically amix of Quick Detailer and water. In mostcases especially ultra fine clays, you can use only water as a lube. You cancut a clay bar into 2-3 pieces and just keep refolding as you do eachpanel (put clay in a pot of warm waterto help make it pliable, especially in cold weather. Spray a panel (and the clay) with lube thenclay in straight lines until you stop feeling the clay is picking anything up. Ifyou drop the claybar on the ground, throw it away, DO NOT use again. Run your hand over the paint and you shouldfeel a very noticeable difference. Dryeach panel as you go with an ultra soft micro fibre towel.
Detarring:At this stage I will also be removing any tar deposits on the paint or alloysusing a specific product. One that I canhighly recommend is Autosmart Tardis. Spray on, wait a couple of minutes for it towork and then wipe off using a soft microfibre pad/cloth. Then rinse each panel again. Warning– if you use this on your car that is already waxed or sealed, then it willremove it and a top up of wax or sealant will be required on the necessarypanels. THROW AWAY THE MICROFIBRE CLOTHTHAT YOU HAVE USED TO WIPE IT OFF – DON’T PUT IT IN THE WASHINE MACHINE – ITWILL STINK!
Removal ofIron Contaminants: Another importantstep is removing iron filings/rust spots. These are particularly noticeable onwhite paint but all cars will have them. Claying does not remove these, just merely takes the top off them butleaves them embedded in the paint. Irecommend Autofinesse Iron Out forthis. You spray it on a panel at a time,leave for a couple of minutes and then stand back and watch your car turnpurple! Don’t worry, all this is doingis showing the amount of iron filings/rust spots on your car and the IronX isdissolving it from the paint. After twominutes, agitate with a clean microfiber cloth and then rinse off and drydown. Do this on each panel. Avoid the rubber trims if you can. THISSTUFF REALLY STINKS. Do not reusethe cloth.
Meguirs Smooth Surface Clay/Clay lube (or water in aspray bottle)
Dodo Juice Basic of Bling Clay/Lube
8. Polish: Polishing adds shine and reflectivity toa car’s paintwork. It can also removeswirls, scratches, oxidation depending on the ‘cutting’ ability of the polishbeing used. These polishes should beused with caution as they do remove a layer of paint. Unless you have something called a DepthGauge the usage should be limited. Other polishes contain fillers which meansthat they mask the swirls or scratches temporarily. It will look like they have beenremoved. In about a month, they willreappear.
By Hand: There are some polishes on the market thatcan remove swirls/scratches by hand. Formore serious defects, machine polishes are necessary. Autoglym’s Super Resin Polish is a very wellknow ‘filling’ polish and it does add a brilliant shine. GTechniq’s P1 can be used by hand and willpermanently remove swirls/scratches but like all things, it is hard work byhand. P1 can be used by machine foroptimum correction.
Autoglym Super Resin Polish (fillers)
Werkstat Prime Polish (deep cleanser, no correction)
Chemical Guys EZ Cremem Glaze (no fillers)
Dodo Juice Lime Prime Pre Wax Cleanser (some fillers)
9. Sealantor Wax (or both): You can use one or the other or both. NBif using both, then it’s sealant first then wax. You cannot put a sealant over wax –it won’tadhere to the surface due to the oils in the wax. A sealant or wax provides protection to thecar’s paintwork. A lot of people thinkthe shine on the car comes from the wax (or sealant) but this is not true. That is the job of the polish or prewax cleanser. A wax seals in the shine and also providesprotection from the elements, rain, UV protection, fallout etc. I apply a wax or sealant to the door shuts,kick plates, around the boot openings. It is up to you to choose whether you go for wax or sealant. Both provide exactly the sample protectionbut both offer different looks for the paint. Sealants provide a more glassy, reflective finish and enhance the flakein metallic or pearlescent paints and are said to repel dirt better thanwaxes. Waxes on the other hand provide awarmer look, with depth but can tend to mute the metallic flake. Some waxes can also provide a ‘wet look’ tothe paint. It depends entirely on thesort of look you want to achieve. Eachalso offer different lengths of durability. Some can last 8-9 months but some can last only a matter of weeks. Again the most important thing is to rememberto use ultra soft micro fibre cloths when applying (sealants) and buffing offsealants and waxes. Quality is allimportant. An applicator pad is normallyused for applying waxes and very often goes on better if the pad is moistenedslightly. The main thing to remember isless is more. Apply as thinly as possibleas this makes it much easier to removed. If it’s caked on then you can induce marring to the paint as you will beapplying more pressure than you need to. Multiple layers of wax or sealant can be applied. For wax, two layers is sufficient. For sealant, up to six layers can be applies,or even more if you wish.
Waxes:
Dodo Juice waxes – any (varying durability but usually 3months, some more)
Zymol Concours (gives a phenomenal wet look but veryexpensive (2-3months durability)
Dodo Juice Supernatural Premium Wax
Collinite 915 Marque D’Excellence
Sealants:
Werkstat Acrylic Jett (6months durability with 5-6layers)
Chemical Guys Jetseal 109 (2-3months durability)
GTechniq C2 (8-9months durability)
10. QuickDetailer: A quick detailer (QD) is usedto add an extra layer of shine. Theytend to be used after subsequent washes following a wax or sealant beingused. It prolongs the life of thewax/sealant and also gives that ‘just waxed’ look. After a normal wash, when the car has beendried, apply the QD (a couple of squirts per panel then buff with a clean softmicrofibre cloth) and you are done. It’salso very useful on windows too.
Dodo Juice Red Mist Tropical (use this about 3 weeksafter you’ve waxed, onwards), smells amazing!
Werkstat Gloss
Poorboys QD+
(Continue with parttwo………)
on’t forget to clean and polish your exhaust pipes. Like the tyres, it finishes off the carnicely. Wire wool (grade #00) can beused help remove stains etc. The moreoften it’s done, the easier it is.
