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How to change the engine oil of a F56 Mini Cooper

I raised my vehicle on a couple of ramps, which is probably easiest.
There are fourteen 8mm hex. screws holding on the cover beneath the engine. You don’t have to remove this. Doh! However, it was interesting to see the engineering.... Where’s the engine? I followed back from the drive shafts to the neat little auto gearbox. I found this was attached to a casting that I could spread the fingers of one hand across. I had found the engine! It was tiny.
At the end, I found a 17mm hex. sump plug. Then I sussed out that there’s a flap on the cover I had removed, notated by a big + sign, that would have given access to the plug.

I drained the oil from the warm engine and replaced the sump plug. Don’t over-tighten! It’s a small size and it’s going into aluminium.

As my vehicle’s showing 1100 miles, a new filter wasn’t necessary, but new top quality oil was. The notional oil capacity is 4.25 litres. Allowing for oil held in the filter and around the engine, I refilled with 3.65 litres. It just so-happened that I drained 1.35 litres into an orange juice bottle from my 5 litre container of Mobil 1 0W-40 and used the rest, being cautious.

There’s no dipstick, so the level must be checked on the display with the engine running. Vehicle information, vehicle status, oil can, start measurement. It didn’t and I don’t know if this was by design or not, so went for a brief drive. Back home, I went through the menu again and the start measurement instruction was now highlighted and worked. Up popped the electronic dipstick showing the level bang on the max mark. I suppose we have to trust it, but it doesn’t inspire the confidence of a long piece of metal you dip into the oil.

You may think all this was unnecessary and not on the Mini service schedule.
An engineer would say otherwise.

Easy :)
 

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Totally agree, I will be doing mine soon, just the oil like you not the filter. I was going to put 4l in and hope that was ok so you've now saved me time and I will be far more cautious with quantity. 3.65 was bang on full then?
. Many thanks great post. J
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You must live on this website LOL
Yes, I confirm, 3.65 litres ended up exactly on the electronic max mark.
But, as I inferred, who knows if all this electronic tomfoolery actually works?
 

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You must live on this website LOL
Yes, I confirm, 3.65 litres ended up exactly on the electronic max mark.
But, as I inferred, who knows if all this electronic tomfoolery actually works?
Wow! This is awesome. I am planning to do the very same project over my Xmas break. I have changed oil in plenty of cars in my life but I admit the Mini had me a bit nervous. By posting this, you came to the rescue! Thanks so much!
 

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Me too thanks. Yes on here a lot as have a badly broken arm and can't do much else! Can't drive my beloved newcar. Grrrrr
 

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Hi all: I just finished my home oil change and had a few more details to offer:

Disclaimer: This is the procedure for a 2014 MINI Cooper S Hardtop. Safety First! Engine oil (among other things under the hood) can be hot if oil is changed immediately after driving.

Notes:

1) I have attached a few pics for those who are curious but not curious enough to jack up the car and take a look.
2) If you are looking to replace the stock oil plug with a magnetic oil plug, the correct size is M12X1.5X12. Some size charts on popular speed shop websites say M16X1.5X12 but this is not correct (personal experience). Dimple makes a good one.
3) MINI Brand Oil is just Castrol SAE 5W-30 Full Synthetic. It even said so on the receipt when I bought some at the Dealership.
4) Dispose of used motor oil properly please!

You will need:
Jack and Jack stands or ramps to get under vehicle
Oil collection pan to collect 5 quarts of drainage
Paper towels or rags
Protective gloves
Ratchet and 6-inch extension
17mm socket to remove oil pan drain plug
14mm socket to remove oil filter drain plug
32mm socket to remove the oil filter cap
Large flat-head screwdriver to open underbelly access panels
5 US Quarts SAE 5W-30 Full Synthetic Motor Oil
MINI Oil Filter Kit 11 42 8 570 590 (Comes with filter, cap o-ring, new cap drain plug, and new copper washer for drain plug)
Pick or Awl to gently remove old o-ring from filter cap.

1) Engine should be warm, but not hot so the oil is less viscous. Once the vehicle is raised and secured, you will see two (appx. 5in X 5in) access panels on the underbelly shield. Use the flat-head to rotate these to get the panels opened up.
2) Get collection pan ready, then use 17mm socket to remove the oil drain plug. It is behind the rearward of the two access panels. Allow to drain. Discard old copper gasket on the plug.
3) Use 14mm socket with extension to remove the black plastic drain plug from the filter cap behind the forward access panel. The plug is in the center of the 32mm head on the filter cap. Discard the plug.
4) Once all draining is complete, remove the filter cap with the 32mm socket and the extension. The filter will come out with the cap. Discard the filter element. It requires a good yank to separate it from the cap. If desired, you can compare the new and old elements to be sure the size is correct.
5) Install new black plastic filter cap drain plug that came in filter kit. Plug should be snug but don't "gronk it" as it is only plastic.
5) Remove old o-ring from exterior of the cap using awl or pick and discard. Replace with new one from filter kit. Apply some motor oil to this o-ring so it will go back together without pinching or cutting.
6) Snap new filter element into cap until it is securely attached, then reinstall this into the filter housing. You might have to push pretty hard to get filter to go onto the center tube up in the housing. This is designed to be a tight fit. If the cap threads don't mesh with the housing threads, and you have snapped the filter into the cap correctly, then you need to push more. Tighten the filter cap onto the filter housing with the 32mm socket and extension. The o-ring makes the seal, so there is no need to apply yetti-torque. Snug is good.
7) Place new copper washer from filter kit onto oil pan drain plug and reinstall with 17mm socket. Plug should be tight enough to allow some crush of the copper washer, but the pan is aluminum, so no over-doing it.
8) Wipe away any excess oil and shut both access panels. If you want to be sure you have no leakage, leave them open for now and close them after running the engine for awhile. You'll need to jack up the car again though...
9) Carefully lower the vehicle. Fill the engine with 5 quarts of SAE 5W-30 Full Synthetic and replace fill cap. 5 quarts has always given me exactly "full" on the level indicator, however if you decided not to change the filter (not recommended), you may need less than 5 quarts.
10) Start the engine and look for any signs of leakage underneath. There should be none.
11) With the vehicle on a level surface, perform oil level check procedure (see owner's manual). Note that the car must be level, out of gear, and at normal operating temperature before the level check can be done. The car won't let you do it otherwise. The test can be performed when the "Start Test" option is no longer greyed out on the display.
12) Level check should be exactly "full".
13) Raise vehicle and shut access panels if not done earlier. You are done.
14) On Monday, brag to your water cooler friends at work.
 

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Hello,


I have a Cooper SD and there is a oil dipstick under the hood.


Was a bit hidden at first, dealer never knew about it either.


See the attached photo.


Andy
 

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Interesting. They kept the stick on the diesel... I would have better confidence with a stick in my MCS. The computer oil test would not work until my engine temp was two ticks past the center point on the temperature gage. I ultimately had to take it out and hot-dog it to get the temp high enough to enable the test.
 

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"|engine temp was two ticks past the center point on the temperature gage. I ultimately had to take it out and hot-dog it to get the temp high enough to enable the test."

Temperature Gauge!!!! Wheres that?

Tony
 

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In my USA F56S there is a small black button on the end of the turn signal arm. Pushing it repeatedly cycles thru stuff like temp, mileage, avg. speed, avg. mpg, current mpg, current speed, etc.

The first push (in my car anyway) brings up "Temp OK" or something like that, and after a few seconds without pushing the button again it will show a little meter-like display.

Best of luck!
 

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Hey here is just another oil filter related note:

I took my car to the dealer to get the snow tires installed two weeks ago. Anyway, there was some sort of recall on the oil filter housing, so they had to keep my car an extra few days to get the replacement housing in and get it installed. I was not provided the details at the dealership, but did find some information here:

http://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ssues/279210-oil-filter-housing-failures.html

Since my "between dealer oil change" oil change was coming due, I asked if they had replaced the filter and changed the oil. They said "no" - they only drained out the filter housing and put the old filter back in after bolting on the new housing, followed by a top-up on the oil. My point is that if you do extra oil changes, getting this recall work done does not "reset" your interval.

When they told me the housing had to come out I had visions of the whole front end of my new car strewn about the dealer garage, but they assured me they could get it off of the block without tearing the whole thing apart. I refuse to believe it, but everything is good to go so...

I had a free loaner identical to mine so I couldn't really complain about the delay either.
 

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Hi all: I just finished my home oil change and had a few more details to offer:

Disclaimer: This is the procedure for a 2014 MINI Cooper S Hardtop. Safety First! Engine oil (among other things under the hood) can be hot if oil is changed immediately after driving.

Notes:

1) I have attached a few pics for those who are curious but not curious enough to jack up the car and take a look.
2) If you are looking to replace the stock oil plug with a magnetic oil plug, the correct size is M12X1.5X12. Some size charts on popular speed shop websites say M16X1.5X12 but this is not correct (personal experience). Dimple makes a good one.
3) MINI Brand Oil is just Castrol SAE 5W-30 Full Synthetic. It even said so on the receipt when I bought some at the Dealership.
4) Dispose of used motor oil properly please!

You will need:
Jack and Jack stands or ramps to get under vehicle
Oil collection pan to collect 5 quarts of drainage
Paper towels or rags
Protective gloves
Ratchet and 6-inch extension
17mm socket to remove oil pan drain plug
14mm socket to remove oil filter drain plug
32mm socket to remove the oil filter cap
Large flat-head screwdriver to open underbelly access panels
5 US Quarts SAE 5W-30 Full Synthetic Motor Oil
MINI Oil Filter Kit 11 42 8 570 590 (Comes with filter, cap o-ring, new cap drain plug, and new copper washer for drain plug)
Pick or Awl to gently remove old o-ring from filter cap.

1) Engine should be warm, but not hot so the oil is less viscous. Once the vehicle is raised and secured, you will see two (appx. 5in X 5in) access panels on the underbelly shield. Use the flat-head to rotate these to get the panels opened up.
2) Get collection pan ready, then use 17mm socket to remove the oil drain plug. It is behind the rearward of the two access panels. Allow to drain. Discard old copper gasket on the plug.
3) Use 14mm socket with extension to remove the black plastic drain plug from the filter cap behind the forward access panel. The plug is in the center of the 32mm head on the filter cap. Discard the plug.
4) Once all draining is complete, remove the filter cap with the 32mm socket and the extension. The filter will come out with the cap. Discard the filter element. It requires a good yank to separate it from the cap. If desired, you can compare the new and old elements to be sure the size is correct.
5) Install new black plastic filter cap drain plug that came in filter kit. Plug should be snug but don't "gronk it" as it is only plastic.
5) Remove old o-ring from exterior of the cap using awl or pick and discard. Replace with new one from filter kit. Apply some motor oil to this o-ring so it will go back together without pinching or cutting.
6) Snap new filter element into cap until it is securely attached, then reinstall this into the filter housing. You might have to push pretty hard to get filter to go onto the center tube up in the housing. This is designed to be a tight fit. If the cap threads don't mesh with the housing threads, and you have snapped the filter into the cap correctly, then you need to push more. Tighten the filter cap onto the filter housing with the 32mm socket and extension. The o-ring makes the seal, so there is no need to apply yetti-torque. Snug is good.
7) Place new copper washer from filter kit onto oil pan drain plug and reinstall with 17mm socket. Plug should be tight enough to allow some crush of the copper washer, but the pan is aluminum, so no over-doing it.
8) Wipe away any excess oil and shut both access panels. If you want to be sure you have no leakage, leave them open for now and close them after running the engine for awhile. You'll need to jack up the car again though...
9) Carefully lower the vehicle. Fill the engine with 5 quarts of SAE 5W-30 Full Synthetic and replace fill cap. 5 quarts has always given me exactly "full" on the level indicator, however if you decided not to change the filter (not recommended), you may need less than 5 quarts.
10) Start the engine and look for any signs of leakage underneath. There should be none.
11) With the vehicle on a level surface, perform oil level check procedure (see owner's manual). Note that the car must be level, out of gear, and at normal operating temperature before the level check can be done. The car won't let you do it otherwise. The test can be performed when the "Start Test" option is no longer greyed out on the display.
12) Level check should be exactly "full".
13) Raise vehicle and shut access panels if not done earlier. You are done.
14) On Monday, brag to your water cooler friends at work.
Thanks for a very detailed description!
I am a bit confused about the quantity of oil though: is it not 5 litres rather than quarts that is required?
 

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I have just found out how close a quart is in volume to a litre!


Apologies, my mistake...I am totally unfamiliar with working with quarts!
 

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I use 5 US quarts and it goes right to the FULL mark. :) That should be right at about 4.73 litres.
 

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Slight Modification to Oil Change Procedure

Hi all: I just finished my home oil change and had a few more details to offer:

Disclaimer: This is the procedure for a 2014 MINI Cooper S Hardtop. Safety First! Engine oil (among other things under the hood) can be hot if oil is changed immediately after driving.

Notes:

1) I have attached a few pics for those who are curious but not curious enough to jack up the car and take a look.
2) If you are looking to replace the stock oil plug with a magnetic oil plug, the correct size is M12X1.5X12. Some size charts on popular speed shop websites say M16X1.5X12 but this is not correct (personal experience). Dimple makes a good one.
3) MINI Brand Oil is just Castrol SAE 5W-30 Full Synthetic. It even said so on the receipt when I bought some at the Dealership.
4) Dispose of used motor oil properly please!

You will need:
Jack and Jack stands or ramps to get under vehicle
Oil collection pan to collect 5 quarts of drainage
Paper towels or rags
Protective gloves
Ratchet and 6-inch extension
17mm socket to remove oil pan drain plug
14mm socket to remove oil filter drain plug
32mm socket to remove the oil filter cap
Large flat-head screwdriver to open underbelly access panels
5 US Quarts SAE 5W-30 Full Synthetic Motor Oil
MINI Oil Filter Kit 11 42 8 570 590 (Comes with filter, cap o-ring, new cap drain plug, and new copper washer for drain plug)
Pick or Awl to gently remove old o-ring from filter cap.

1) Engine should be warm, but not hot so the oil is less viscous. Once the vehicle is raised and secured, you will see two (appx. 5in X 5in) access panels on the underbelly shield. Use the flat-head to rotate these to get the panels opened up.
2) Get collection pan ready, then use 17mm socket to remove the oil drain plug. It is behind the rearward of the two access panels. Allow to drain. Discard old copper gasket on the plug.
3) Use 14mm socket with extension to remove the black plastic drain plug from the filter cap behind the forward access panel. The plug is in the center of the 32mm head on the filter cap. Discard the plug.
4) Once all draining is complete, remove the filter cap with the 32mm socket and the extension. The filter will come out with the cap. Discard the filter element. It requires a good yank to separate it from the cap. If desired, you can compare the new and old elements to be sure the size is correct.
5) Install new black plastic filter cap drain plug that came in filter kit. Plug should be snug but don't "gronk it" as it is only plastic.
5) Remove old o-ring from exterior of the cap using awl or pick and discard. Replace with new one from filter kit. Apply some motor oil to this o-ring so it will go back together without pinching or cutting.
6) Snap new filter element into cap until it is securely attached, then reinstall this into the filter housing. You might have to push pretty hard to get filter to go onto the center tube up in the housing. This is designed to be a tight fit. If the cap threads don't mesh with the housing threads, and you have snapped the filter into the cap correctly, then you need to push more. Tighten the filter cap onto the filter housing with the 32mm socket and extension. The o-ring makes the seal, so there is no need to apply yetti-torque. Snug is good.
7) Place new copper washer from filter kit onto oil pan drain plug and reinstall with 17mm socket. Plug should be tight enough to allow some crush of the copper washer, but the pan is aluminum, so no over-doing it.
8) Wipe away any excess oil and shut both access panels. If you want to be sure you have no leakage, leave them open for now and close them after running the engine for awhile. You'll need to jack up the car again though...
9) Carefully lower the vehicle. Fill the engine with 5 quarts of SAE 5W-30 Full Synthetic and replace fill cap. 5 quarts has always given me exactly "full" on the level indicator, however if you decided not to change the filter (not recommended), you may need less than 5 quarts.
10) Start the engine and look for any signs of leakage underneath. There should be none.
11) With the vehicle on a level surface, perform oil level check procedure (see owner's manual). Note that the car must be level, out of gear, and at normal operating temperature before the level check can be done. The car won't let you do it otherwise. The test can be performed when the "Start Test" option is no longer greyed out on the display.
12) Level check should be exactly "full".
13) Raise vehicle and shut access panels if not done earlier. You are done.
14) On Monday, brag to your water cooler friends at work.
Under "You will need" section, need to add that the SAE 5W-30 motor oil needs to have the Euro oil grade designation "ACEC A3/B3" or "ACEC A3/B4" on the bottle. Castrol EDGE 5W-30 Product # 467525 is ACEC A3/B4, but they make other 5W-30 products that do not meet this spec. A3/B4 oils won't cause oil coking in the turbo, while others may...

Also in Note 3 above, while the receipt did simply say "Castrol 5W-30 Full Synthetic", the MINI Oil bottles do specify that the oil meets the ACEC A3/B3 specification. I just noticed this, and that some Castrol at the Autozone does not!!! :eek:
 

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The oil filter and drain plug are located behind the two "trap doors" located on the large underbody panel beneath the engine. The filter mounts upside down.
 

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How does the MINI know you have changed the oil and filter? Is this done automatically or is there something to do?
 
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