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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
....plus and a new windscreen ;)

It's been a big Saturday morning for our little car. New windscreen, an NM Engineering Power Module installed and a Remus Responder installed.

With less than 2,000km of driving we scored a cracked windscreen thanks to a passing truck on the freeway. Thankfully, our "comprehensive plus" insurance covered the AUD1250 (~USD925) cost for the genuine MINI replacement glass plus installation. It was kind of excruciating to watch a near-new car being dismantled and the snapping sound of those black plastic pillar trims coming off was terrifying. I inspected them very closely to ensure there were no cracks. Anyway, it all went well and the car didn't require any sort of workshop reset from the disconnection of the rain sensor. PHEW.

Then it was onto the two performance items I recently had delivered from OutMotoring.

I've never really done much more than car stereo tinkering in vehicles. Removing components under the hood (for the Power Module) was slightly terrifying - even if this was seemingly straightforward. No leftover parts, no parts lost*, and no error codes thrown up when I started the car!

(*) Shout-out to the guys in this thread for a heads-up on the little grey clips that can go missing in action.

Next was the Remus Responder. I am half-tempted to write a quick how-to guide on this item, which would begin as follows:


1. Watch the
and then COMPLETELY DISREGARD everything you just saw.


Seriously, what a useless video. Flat blade screwdriver? No, the accelerator assembly is held in place with a T30 Torx bolt. How/where to route the cable so it doesn't get damaged, rattle or get in the way? Nup - not a mention.

Sigh.

Will report back in a week or so once I've been able to give the new gear a solid workout.

DJ
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Any initial impressions?
Hi mate. FINALLY took it for a run on Saturday evening after allowing enough time for the replacement windscreen to seal/settle.

Remus Responder - as expected, this was like night and day. Put it on the most aggressive ('race') setting and programmed it to +3 (highest). Kicked-over the car and almost launched myself out of the garage and into huge tree across the road. Seriously. It's like a different car!

The 'race' setting is just a tad too twitchy for inner-city driving (even at -3), but 'sport' at +1 is perfect for me. The tip-in point is very close to the top of the accelerator pedal arc, but not near-instantaneous like 'race'. 'Eco' mode affords a small boost in throttle responsiveness over stock but keeps your "lead foot" in check.

I will have to remember to set it back to OFF before leaving the car in our garage. To quote my other (better) half after she got back home this morning... "Darling - that new accelerator is too fast! Can you put it back to how it was?" Harrrgh!


NM Engineering Power Module - I currently have the Power Module at the LOW setting and I'm running Shell V-Power 98 fuel. At the 'low' setting, the manufacturer claims this should deliver an additional 23hp (17Kw) and 23ft-lbs of torque. That's somewhere in the vicinity of 10-15% over stock for the non-JCW B48. Well, I don't have a dyno at home (heh!) so I switched off the Responder to give myself the best chance of objectively assessing the impact of the Power Module out on the road.

I started with the car in 'mid' mode. From 3000rpm onwards there seemed to be appreciably more pull - particularly when overtaking. Then, the real test, as I switched over to 'sport' mode and tackled a few highway on-ramps. I found myself backing-off much earlier than usual after hitting the target speed limit. w00t! Sure it's no rocket ship, but there's simple "more there" across the final two thirds of the rev range.

I then went 35km out of my way to get to a 110km/h zone for the main event:


  • Remus Valvetronic exhaust set to full open position
  • Remus Responder running the 'race +3' program
  • MINI in 'sport' mode and DSC off
  • MINI in semi-auto (paddle shift M1 --> M5)

Whether it was the instant-on of the throttle, the roar of the exhaust, the tyres screaming for traction, the push-back into my seat or a combination of the above - it was more than enough to surprise, delight and terrify me all at once. I was at the speed limit in what felt-like sub six seconds (untimed) and grinning from ear to ear.

Will be filling the tank with more 98 tomorrow and adding some Nulon Pro Octane Booster before flicking the Power Module over to the HIGH setting.

tl;dr version: Remus Responder = instant fun. NMEng Power Module = so far, so very good. :D

DJ
 

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Thanks for the great mini review....

I'm on the verge to get the JB4 which I can get quite local to me in UK but the NM module is still whispering in my ear "easy install/remove" although I will need to import this in from the US and with the weak £ and import fees it becomes less of a bargain for me.

The Remus Responder does sound interesting.. Is the effect of this product just like the throttle map in "Eco" or "Sport" mode but with options to be more or less aggressive or does it add something else e.g. reduced throttle lag?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The Remus Responder does sound interesting.. Is the effect of this product just like the throttle map in "Eco" or "Sport" mode but with options to be more or less aggressive or does it add something else e.g. reduced throttle lag?
The later. It's all about reducing or eliminating that throttle "tip in lag" ;)

DJ
 

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Thanks OzDJMini
Great write up. I'm still procrastinating - probably forever will but your review has tipped the scales into doing something rather than just thinking about it.
Looking forward to your installation guide.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
A quick update, two weeks on.

Almost through the second full tank of 100RON fuel (Shell V-Power 98 bolstered with Nulon Pro-Strength Octane Booster) with the Power Module on the HIGH setting.

Seriously, it feels like a small rocket has been added to the car when the turbo spins-up. The lift in torque is breathtaking and the traction control now struggles to to keep the rubber stuck to the road.

With the car in Sport mode and the Remus Responder at the highest setting (Race +3) it's like being behind the wheel of a different car.

I just can't wipe the smile off my face :D

DJ
 

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I will have to make the time to take the truck, ugh, on a 140 mile round trip to bring a tank of 100 octane home to try the high setting on the module, but from reading your post I am going to have to do it sooner rather than later although at $9 per gallon US I don't think I can afford to become addicted to the race fuel!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I will have to make the time to take the truck, ugh, on a 140 mile round trip to bring a tank of 100 octane home to try the high setting on the module, but from reading your post I am going to have to do it sooner rather than later although at $9 per gallon US I don't think I can afford to become addicted to the race fuel!
I'm hearing you! :|

98RON is currently AUD1.35 per litre, roughly USD3.90 per gallon. A bottle of octane booster costs AUD22.98 (~USD17.60) and one bottle treats two tanks of 98RON to get up to 100RON.

I'm just playing it safe with the 100RON at the moment before I step back to 98RON. We can't even buy "race" fuels from the pump at suburban fuel stations any more in Australia.

For the next couple of fills I will not add the octane booster and see how the car runs on just 98RON. If there's even a hint of pinging I'll switch back to the LOW setting on the Power Module and leave it there.

DJ

Footnote reminder: RON (AU/EU/NZ etc) ≠ AKI (US/CA) - see here
 

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My S ran fine on 93/94 octane with the NM set on high. After adding the JCW Pro Tuning Kit I had to return it to the low setting though. Still plan to try it on high after the weather cools off and I talk myself into springing for a tank of Racing gas. According to my finely calibrated Butt Dyno the combination of Tuning Kit and NM on high = less power than Tuning Kit and NM on low. Probably due to the ECU dialing back on the timing and fuel curves to prevent pre-detonation. YMMV
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
How did you fitted the Responder, as you quoted that the video from Remus is rubbish?!
The Remus video is more of a promotional video than a how-to.

Let's see how I go....(it was a few weeks ago now).

1. Work out where you want the control unit to live. I chose the surface next to the fog and driving lights as it's out of sight (the LEDs on the control unit are quite bright).

2. Route the cable. Carefully poke the connector over the grey foam that sit between the steering wheel under underside of the dash moulding. Keep pushing the cable until you see the connector in the footwell near the pedals.

3. Using a small flat blade screwdriver or pick tool, remove the small round black plastic cap at the base of the accelerator frame to expose the mounting bolt.

4. Using a T30 Torx driver, remove the mounting bolt. The accelerator assembly can now be lifted up to expose the cable and connector.

5. Squeeze the original connector to separate the two sides. Plug in the Remus connectors and ensure they snap closed. Good news - the non-symmetrical connector design means you can't mix them up.

6. Now, before you go securing anything, it's time to do your cable management. Put the accelerator back in place (don't screw it down just yet), ensuring you haven't pinched the cable anywhere. Tuck the cable behind the plastic at the side of the footwell and start (blindly) working your way up behind the plastic shroud to give the cable a path along the metal frame of the console. As you go, use cable ties to stop the cable from rattling as you drive.

7. You'll now have a comically long length of cable hanging out of your dash with the controller attached. Create a loop, cable-tie it and poke it back through the foam.

8. Stick your mounting bracket in the desired location with the supplied double-sided tape. (Yes, make sure you wipe down the surfaces with isopropyl alcohol first).

9. Once you'd satisfied everything is snug and rattle-resistant, tighten the Torx bolt, replace the cap and take your car for a blast.

DJ
 
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