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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

I have searched for information on retrofitting the auto dimming rear view mirror on an F56.
Does anyone know if it is possible?
 

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I dont know how, but would certainly like to do this as well, have only noticed tonight that this isn't included as standard, i love my mini but c'mon they really should include these basic things these days, and not have every little thing as an option ( I wonder if i have dust caps ???) probably an option!
sry to rant on your post !
But will look into it as well and hopefully we can get it sorted :)
 

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Great question... I’d also be interested in doing this as the auto-dimming mirror is just about the only option I missed. If MINI offered a heated steering wheel on the LCI, I’d be desperate to retro-fit that, too!


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If you trawl the forums youll see that retrofitting ANYTHING to the f series is very tricky but generally with coding and determination do able but expensive.this is down to the wiring loo m being totally specific to the options the car.
 

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Would also be keen for this if you find a way. It’s the only thing really letting me down on mine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Mini F56 Auto Dimming Interior Mirror Retrofit

This was carried out on a 2014 F56 Cooper S.
The main aim is to populate pins 3, 6 and 10 in the plug that goes to the mirror.
If your car has an alarm, pin 10 will already be populated with the ground wire.
If you don’t have an alarm, you may not have a plug at all. You will require part number 61 13 6 909 008 to be able to carry this out.
I couldn’t see any additional wiring required for universal remote control or the compass version. I didn’t want them so can’t guarantee that they will work.

Tools Required:
Plastic trim removal tools
Torx screwdrivers
Small flat blade screwdriver
Soldering iron and solder
Insulating tape

Parts required:
The correct mirror for your spec of car. (mine was part No: 51 16 9 285 374, I have an alarm, but didn’t want universal remote control)
2 or 3 x BMW part no: 61 13 0 006 663
15ft of 22 gauge wire
1x Power distribution box contact TE-1241388-1


Running the power cable to the fuse box was a bit easier for me as I was hard wiring a dash cam at the same time. This allowed me to incorporate the power wire into this loom. In theory you could link this in to any 12v feed, but I chose to run it to the correct location at the rear of the fuse box.
If this option is not for you, scroll to the bottom for an easier option!!

Firstly, remove the glove box, front passenger side kick panel and sill trim, passenger side dash side trim, passenger internal A-Pillar trim, the front roof console and rear view mirror trims.
Instructions for this are available from ISTA.

Remove and unplug the original interior mirror. Do this by gently pulling it, parallel to the windscreen, down towards the dashboard. Have one hand underneath the mirror as it may come loose all of a sudden. A bit of wiggling does help. Do not pull back on it as you risk damaging the windscreen.

Coming from the headlining you should have a 10 pin black plug, A60*1B, for the mirror, and a small 2 pin plug if you have a rain/light sensor. We only need the 10 pin plug. If you have an alarm, pins 9 and 10 should already be populated
Solder a length of the 22 gauge wire to one of the 61130006663 wires so that it can be routed along the roof line and down the A-pillar to the fuse box.

Gently, and I mean gently, pry up the retaining tab on the top of the plug with a small screwdriver. Insert this terminal into location 3 on the 10 pin plug behind the mirror. This is the power wire for the mirror.

The other 61130006663 should be inserted into location 6 on the 10 pin black plug. This wire is the LIN (local interconnect network) signal wire. It is long enough to be connected without needing to add any wire.
In the long thin black plug, E131*2B, that was removed from the left side of the roof console, you should find the correct violet/yellow wire in position 2
Solder the wire from pin 6 into this wire and insulate properly.

Neatly run the power wire along the front of the roof, down the A pillar and towards the fuse box. Try to wrap it into available looms as you go making sure there is no chaffing and plenty of slack at corners.
Run it behind the fuse box and cut to length and crimp the TE 1241388-1 on to it.
You will need to find terminal 15 in connector Z7*3B. Remove the blue locking bar, using a small screwdriver, from the fuse box. Insert the connector you just fitted and replace the blue bar. Insert a 5 amp micro fuse into the front of the fuse box in position 52.

You can now replace all of the parts that were removed to start with. Make sure the wires for the rain/light sensor and mirror are inside the plastic trim. Leave the sill trim till last and make sure the rear of it is properly seated into the ¼ panel trim.

You will need to code the rear view mirror in using ESYS.
You can change the FA (Vehicle Order) by adding option 431, this is the easiest option.
Or to code it in manually:

3120>ISP_EC set to: aktiv
3120>ISP_KOMPASS set to: nicht aktiv (default) (Aktiv if you have the compass)
3120>LIN_ISP_VERBAUT set to: aktiv
3120>PF_INMI_LIN_VAR set to: ISP_k_MINI_EC_DWA
(ISP_k_MINI_EC if you don’t have an alarm, option 302)


Now, having looked over this again, there is an easier way if you don’t want to go to the trouble of routing a wire to the correct location in the fuse box.
Remove the trims for the mirror and the complete front roof console.
If you have an alarm, insert a 61 13 0 006 663 into positions 3 and 6 on the 10 pin plug, A60*1B, for the mirror. If you don’t have an alarm, put an additional pin into position 10. The wire on these pins are the same colours so mark them with a piece of masking tape, with the pin number on it, so you can identify them later
Insulate the wires together and route them into the headlining and out of the opening for the roof console. Locate plug E131*2B in the roof console loom. Solder pin 3 to pin 3, pin 6 to pin 2 and pin 10 to pin 1 if you need to.

Carry out the coding required and that should be it.

Refit the trims you removed.

For those of you that want to go with the fuse box option, I have 4 of the fuse box terminals left as I purchased 5. I was not able to find this terminal on BMW ETK, so had to buy them online after I identified what they were.
The first 4 people to let me know can have one each, and if required, I will crimp them onto a length of red 22 gauge wire.

If you have any questions, I will do my best to answer them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
You May also need to have the rain sensor option fitted as I think most of the auto dimming mirrors only fit on this type of windscreen base.
It would be best to remove your old mirror and check before ordering a new one.
The windscreen mirror base on mine was square with roughly 2.5-3” sides

As I said before, if you have any questions, I will try to help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I have attached an image from ETK with the mirrors that have the correct base circled.

You may also have to change the trims that go around the mirror base, my original ones went back on though.
I have a spare set if someone needs them, only ask that you pay shipping for them
 

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Thanks for that. Will have a go at doing this. Just wondering if this will make it possible to install the auto dimming exterior mirrors? Also I don’t have the unit labelled a21 in the picture. Is that needed for this install?


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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Auto Exterior mirrors are a completely different circuit. It would depend on the current spec of your car.


Thanks for that. Will have a go at doing this. Just wondering if this will make it possible to install the auto dimming exterior mirrors? Also I don’t have the unit labelled a21 in the picture. Is that needed for this install?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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