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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
With ECU reprogramming being a common practice for all models of MINI, I thought it would be interesting to see what everyone is running, mods and performance wise.

Could also turn into a good resource for those seeking the same performance path.

Will also be interesting to see how long everyone has been driving their F-series modified and how they feel about the mods.


I'll start:
2017 F56 JCW
Forge intercooler fitted by myself and subsequent dyno tune by DervTech for 305hp and 450Nm.
6000 smooth, fast miles completed since the tune.

I had the JCW Pro suspension installed when I purchased the car, so it has always handled well and the Uniroyal RS3 rubber gives excellent traction.
This thing has a voracious appetite for twisty A-roads and two 6th gear powerbands which can only really be used on a track.

Edited to add dyno graph:
68075


What have you guys got going on under the bonnet?
 

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Hey,

Good to hear you have had success with your mods.

Mine are as follows:

2015 MCS

Forge intercooler
Forge charge and intake pipes
Cravenspeed induction kit
JCW pro exhaust
JCW pro brake kit
Quaife LSD
Helix cerametalic 6 paddle clutch
Team Dynamics Pro race wheels
Manic Stage 2 map
Michelin pilot cup 2 tyres

315 hp / 488nm

2 years with the map now and 20/30 thousand miles no issues. Much improved power and response since fitting the charge and boost pipes (but I did have a leak prior.. only discovered when fitting new pipes) most of the work was done by lohen in staffordshire.

Cheers,

Mike
IMG_6393.png




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With ECU reprogramming being a common practice for all models of MINI, I thought it would be interesting to see what everyone is running, mods and performance wise.

Could also turn into a good resource for those seeking the same performance path.

Will also be interesting to see how long everyone has been driving their F-series modified and how they feel about the mods.


I'll start:
2017 F56 JCW
Forge intercooler fitted by myself and subsequent dyno tune by DervTech for 305hp and 450Nm.
6000 smooth, fast miles completed since the tune.

I had the JCW Pro suspension installed when I purchased the car, so it has always handled well and the Uniroyal RS3 rubber gives excellent traction.
This thing has a voracious appetite for twisty A-roads and two 6th gear powerbands which can only really be used on a track.

Edited to add dyno graph:
View attachment 68075

What have you guys got going on under the bonnet?
Hey,

How are the lower gears on the JCW with your map are able to get the power down? I remember reading that you guys have slightly different ratios to the MCS, I struggle with 3rd gear at times even in really good conditions... 2nd gear is very tricky to find a sweet spot now as it flairs up very easily..

Cheers,

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hey,

How are the lower gears on the JCW with your map are able to get the power down? I remember reading that you guys have slightly different ratios to the MCS, I struggle with 3rd gear at times even in really good conditions... 2nd gear is very tricky to find a sweet spot now as it flairs up very easily..

Cheers,

Mike
Lots of torque for FWD, can make keeping traction a challenge, needs a delicate touch in 2nd and 3rd like you say. Sticky rubber helps a lot.

Are you running stock suspension?
 

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Hey, decided to join

LCI 2018 MCS no GPF, 7-step DCT

JCW stock exhaust with res delete
stock Primacy 3 non-runflat tires (Pirelli snowcontrol 3 in winter)
k&n filter

there are more mods coming and there is still a lot of work to do, haha
195 hp / 311nm - STOCK (192 hp / 280 (300) Nm is rated by BMW)
260hp / 400nm - REMAP
68152


We're still under development and we will probably make some changes.
The new 7-step DCT is rated at long-term maximum 320nm, worried a little, but it is ok so far, no slipping, no sounds, shifting smoothly. (READ UPDATE)
But my stupidity showed up, when the custom map was made, I was running RON 99, then I after the remap I filled up with RON 95 and it made so big difference because the map was made for 99! It started to be jerky and unstable and ECU was cutting power to prevent damage, then I filled up again with 99 and it was getting better again every minute.
My mistake, nothing happened, lessons learned.
I was a bit afraid of knocking and detonation, it is good now with premium fuel.
Keep in mind, MCS has a compression ration of 11:1!

IMPORTANT UPDATE:
If anyone is considering a remap around and above 400Nm with this 7-step DCT, be aware that the clutches can get hot and you get a warning and the power cuts to prevent damage, it only happens when you abuse the engine and transmission, it needs time to cool down, same thing when you use launch control, IT NEEDS TIME TO COOL DOWN!
This might be a proof why the clutches were rated at 320nm, the transmission can do more, it is just the clutches.

If you don't abuse it, nothing will happen and no hot temperature warning, and ECU cutting power will happen.
Also consider halving the interval of the transmission oil change (not mechatronics, it's fill for life), normal interval is 120.000 km, if exceeded by 3000km, the clutches need to be replaced aswell, got this info from a MINI/BMW specialist. So go around 60.000 km and don't abuse the transmission by accelerating hard every time in a short period of time, give your good ol' transmission a chance to cool down a bit ;)

Also running a second full tank of premium petrol rated 99 RON and it is running smoothly.
Don't forget to frequently change oil and don't use that 0w20, I think it is not enough for this engine, especially when remaped to such a power.
I use Ravenol RUP USVO 5w40 for summer and Ravenol 0w30 for winter.
 

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Lots of torque for FWD, can make keeping traction a challenge, needs a delicate touch in 2nd and 3rd like you say. Sticky rubber helps a lot.

Are you running stock suspension?
I have the stock suspension yes, with adaptive dampers.. I would really like to get a more sport/track focused setup but I have to drive it quite a lot just for work etc so it would get annoying quite quickly I think... even with the dampers set to sport it’s a bit annoying sometimes on rough roads.

I also forgot to mention I have a miltek large bore down pipe and high flow sports cat which combined with the pro exhaust is incredibly rowdy! No flames though sadly as I think that seems to only happen with a de-cat. I assumed that would be a bit of a pain to get MOT’d though so went with the sports cat. I do wonder how people get around that... are they fitting a cat before each MOT and then removing it or are they just very good friends with their local MOT tester?!


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Hey, decided to join

LCI 2018 MCS no GPF, 7-step DCT

JCW stock exhaust with res delete
stock Primacy 3 non-runflat tires (Pirelli snowcontrol 3 in winter)
k&n filter

there are more mods coming and there is still a lot of work to do, haha
195 hp / 311nm - STOCK (192 hp / 280 (300) Nm is rated by BMW)
260hp / 400nm - REMAP
View attachment 68152

We're still under development and we will probably make some changes.
The new 7-step DCT is rated at long-term maximum 320nm, worried a little, but it is ok so far, no slipping, no sounds, shifting smoothly. (READ UPDATE)
But my stupidity showed up, when the custom map was made, I was running RON 99, then I after the remap I filled up with RON 95 and it made so big difference because the map was made for 99! It started to be jerky and unstable and ECU was cutting power to prevent damage, then I filled up again with 99 and it was getting better again every minute.
My mistake, nothing happened, lessons learned.
I was a bit afraid of knocking and detonation, it is good now with premium fuel.
Keep in mind, MCS has a compression ration of 11:1!

IMPORTANT UPDATE:
If anyone is considering a remap around and above 400Nm with this 7-step DCT, be aware that the clutches can get hot and you get a warning and the power cuts to prevent damage, it only happens when you abuse the engine and transmission, it needs time to cool down, same thing when you use launch control, IT NEEDS TIME TO COOL DOWN!
This might be a proof why the clutches were rated at 320nm, the transmission can do more, it is just the clutches.

If you don't abuse it, nothing will happen and no hot temperature warning, and ECU cutting power will happen.
Also consider halving the interval of the transmission oil change (not mechatronics, it's fill for life), normal interval is 120.000 km, if exceeded by 3000km, the clutches need to be replaced aswell, got this info from a MINI/BMW specialist. So go around 60.000 km and don't abuse the transmission by accelerating hard every time in a short period of time, give your good ol' transmission a chance to cool down a bit ;)

Also running a second full tank of premium petrol rated 99 RON and it is running smoothly.
Don't forget to frequently change oil and don't use that 0w20, I think it is not enough for this engine, especially when remaped to such a power.
I use Ravenol RUP USVO 5w40 for summer and Ravenol 0w30 for winter.
Sounds good, what plans do you have now? Is there anything you can do to improve the clutch setup? More torque/less heat etc...


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Sounds good, what plans do you have now? Is there anything you can do to improve the clutch setup? More torque/less heat etc...


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Probably some styling or JCW pro exterior, fitting strut bars, getting better tires and new fancy oem JCW wheels. I was thinking about an open air intake. Might also do a forge intercooler.

no idea about the clutch, but I am going to change the transmission oil, might help a little. I don’t think there is some kind of performance clutch pack for this DCT yet, everybody is lacking information about this 7DCT, including myself knowing minimum.
So I am probably stuck at 400-410 Nm for now. It’s pretty ok, can’t abuse it though!?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I have the stock suspension yes, with adaptive dampers.. I would really like to get a more sport/track focused setup but I have to drive it quite a lot just for work etc so it would get annoying quite quickly I think... even with the dampers set to sport it’s a bit annoying sometimes on rough roads.
With the mods you've got, and no suspension mods, to say you're missing out would be a massive understatement.

I've had the JCW Pro suspension (KW V1) since a week after I got the car. Zero regrets.
Perfectly sprung and valved for fast road use. I regularly drive 3hr each way for work in perfect comfort.
 

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Hey guys, what are your thoughts on getting extra gauges to monitor boost pressure and such after getting remapped? Important or no?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hey guys, what are your thoughts on getting extra gauges to monitor boost pressure and such after getting remapped? Important or no?
It might be worth trying an app like Torque and a Bluetooth ODB adapter first to see if you find the extra information useful.

Scangauge 2 is another simple to install option. Well proven and displays ample data.
 

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Thanks, I’ve looked at options, was curious what you guys with modded minis do though. Is the extra information just a nice to have thing, or is it considered essential in order to help protect the engine? Like boost in particular, can you put it in limp mode by over boosting, or even worse blow something up?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
With the sophistication of modern ECU technology, the day's boost gauge as an essential turbo health monitor and driving aid on factory vehicles are behind us. Modern turbo petrol motors make loads of torque everywhere, making driving a point-and-squirt type affair. On modified vehicles though, it makes sense to keep an eye on as much engine sensors information as you can garner, if you are so inclined.

Personally I think I will go the Scangauge route, I like the semi permanent nature of it and the fact that they are proven and safe.
The alternative Bluetooth dongle option doesn't appeal, I have one but wouldn't leave it plugged in unattended for a myriad of reasons.
 

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With the mods you've got, and no suspension mods, to say you're missing out would be a massive understatement.

I've had the JCW Pro suspension (KW V1) since a week after I got the car. Zero regrets.
Perfectly sprung and valved for fast road use. I regularly drive 3hr each way for work in perfect comfort.
Sounds good, I think I may go that way next.. just need to gather up the funds! It would be interesting to see how much difference stiffer suspension makes to acceleration as I imagine it helps with the front grip? My car does sit down quite dramatically under full load after the map.


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Hi all, new to the forum but not minis this is our sixth in the family..just purchased another one a 2017 F56 MCS. Dark blue and v understated looks like a ‘lux’ model but thanks to Evolve now has c.280 bhp thanks to their Evolve R system and it’s stupid quick tbh ? has one issue which I’d appreciate some feedback on please: a few days after remap I accelerated hard between 2500 and 3500 in 4th and had what felt like an ignition cut for a millisecond before car returned to normal, no engine warning lights on dash. Evolve have been great and suggested bad fuel from the fault codes. However, I now have a very lumpy idle which I hope to cure with a set of NGK colder plugs. Car is only on 20k with full mini history; obviously don’t want mini involved as remap will leave a trace and likely void warranty so any thoughts or advice be hugely appreciated please and Happy Christmas to all.
 

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Hi all, new to the forum but not minis this is our sixth in the family..just purchased another one a 2017 F56 MCS. Dark blue and v understated looks like a ‘lux’ model but thanks to Evolve now has c.280 bhp thanks to their Evolve R system and it’s stupid quick tbh has one issue which I’d appreciate some feedback on please: a few days after remap I accelerated hard between 2500 and 3500 in 4th and had what felt like an ignition cut for a millisecond before car returned to normal, no engine warning lights on dash. Evolve have been great and suggested bad fuel from the fault codes. However, I now have a very lumpy idle which I hope to cure with a set of NGK colder plugs. Car is only on 20k with full mini history; obviously don’t want mini involved as remap will leave a trace and likely void warranty so any thoughts or advice be hugely appreciated please and Happy Christmas to all.
Hi,

Happy Christmas

Not sure if you are seeing the same issue I had.. but one of the clips attaching the intake came loose after my map and caused varying issues when accelerating hard, mainly inconsistent power delivery.. no idea how it came lose and i ended up just replacing the intake and charge pipes with forge aluminum ones before we realized.. worth just rattling them around and checking they are secure.

Cheers,

Mike


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Hi all, new to the forum but not minis this is our sixth in the family..just purchased another one a 2017 F56 MCS. Dark blue and v understated looks like a ‘lux’ model but thanks to Evolve now has c.280 bhp thanks to their Evolve R system and it’s stupid quick tbh ? has one issue which I’d appreciate some feedback on please: a few days after remap I accelerated hard between 2500 and 3500 in 4th and had what felt like an ignition cut for a millisecond before car returned to normal, no engine warning lights on dash. Evolve have been great and suggested bad fuel from the fault codes. However, I now have a very lumpy idle which I hope to cure with a set of NGK colder plugs. Car is only on 20k with full mini history; obviously don’t want mini involved as remap will leave a trace and likely void warranty so any thoughts or advice be hugely appreciated please and Happy Christmas to all.
Hi,

Happy Christmas

Not sure if you are seeing the same issue I had.. but one of the clips attaching the intake came loose after my map and caused varying issues when accelerating hard, mainly inconsistent power delivery.. no idea how it came lose and i ended up just replacing the intake and charge pipes with forge aluminum ones before we realized.. worth just rattling them around and checking they are secure.

Cheers,

Mike


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Thanks Mike for the heads up, I’d be mega pleased if that was the fix ? thinking about it the engine will be moving lots more under load (powerflex front engine mount on order) so it could be the reason the clips pop off as f it’s twisting the connection under load ? out of U.K. at mo but will update you next week, in meantime any other possible causes be much appreciated. Cheers James
 

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Brief update....New spark plugs has fixed my car which I returned to stock. Booked in at the Performance Centre Sunderland for a custom map, before and after dyno to check all is well for less than £300 ?
 

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Brief update....New spark plugs has fixed my car which I returned to stock. Booked in at the Performance Centre Sunderland for a custom map, before and after dyno to check all is well for less than £300
Great news, let us know how the map goes.

I think i’ll take up your suggestion on engine mounts also

Cheers,

Mike


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Will do Mike, after a good half an hour chat with PCS they seem to know their 'onions' and are focused on drivability not chasing headline numbers whch really impressed me.
 
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