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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My local MINI dealership wants (a starting price just to diagnose the problem) $140 because my trunk light won't turn on anymore. Honestly, I think it's just a blown fuse, but even then they still want $70 just to replace a fuse! Does anyone have any tips or ideas as to how I could fix this myself? Because I don't feel like paying over $140 dollars for getting my trunk light back on.
 

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My local MINI dealership wants (a starting price just to diagnose the problem) $140 because my trunk light won't turn on anymore. Honestly, I think it's just a blown fuse, but even then they still want $70 just to replace a fuse! Does anyone have any tips or ideas as to how I could fix this myself? Because I don't feel like paying over $140 dollars for getting my trunk light back on.
Check the bulb first - the housing pops right off.
 
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What @siriuszero said.

If the fuse blows, it's due to an electrical fault, or some device attached to the lamp circuit is pulling too much current (did we hook up a hairdryer to the boot light?) Blown fuses on a modern, new car are almost never the problem. Replace the light. It's a $2.00 fix.
 

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I just changed my boot light out for a cooler, brighter LED bulb so here's the breakdown:

The housing is VERY easy to remove - you'll see a notch on the lens facing towards the front of the cabin. Use a plastic spudger or a small screwdriver wrapped in a cloth so you don't scratch anything and just pry it off on one side. Once one side is loose, you can pull the whole assembly out - it will be attached to a wire, but you can remove it by squeezing the tab on the connector.

The bulb is housed in a metal clip, so it's not easy to remove, but you can at least see the bulb and check if the filament is intact or not.

Oh and make sure you use gloves or something when handling the bulb...that sucker gets toasty!
 

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Oh and make sure you use gloves or something when handling the bulb...that sucker gets toasty!
Both so you don't burn your fingers and so that you don't get oil on the bulb. Which can cause it to fail. :)
 

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My local MINI dealership wants (a starting price just to diagnose the problem) $140 because my trunk light won't turn on anymore. Honestly, I think it's just a blown fuse, but even then they still want $70 just to replace a fuse! Does anyone have any tips or ideas as to how I could fix this myself? Because I don't feel like paying over $140 dollars for getting my trunk light back on.
Why doesn't the warranty cover this repair ?
When my 2008 was under warranty the rear license plate light burnt out,
it was dealt with and fixed for n/c under warranty.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
What @siriuszero said.

If the fuse blows, it's due to an electrical fault, or some device attached to the lamp circuit is pulling too much current (did we hook up a hairdryer to the boot light?) Blown fuses on a modern, new car are almost never the problem. Replace the light. It's a $2.00 fix.
I replaced the light yesterday, but it still doesnt turn on. So I'd have to make the assumption that it's a fuse. So I'm gonna check it out today and try to do the fuse myself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Why doesn't the warranty cover this repair ?
When my 2008 was under warranty the rear license plate light burnt out,
it was dealt with and fixed for n/c under warranty.
Honestly, I had the same question. Seems weird that it's not warrantied.
 

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Honestly, I had the same question. Seems weird that it's not warrantied.
To me it doesnt make any sense.
This item should be covered under your warranty.
Ask again. Make sure you tell them that the car is new and under warranty.
That should make a difference and it should be fixed for free.
Parts like replacing brake pads and disc from use, and not covered under warranty cuz they are considered wear and tare items. But a light bulb, fuse or anything else contributing to the trunk light not lighting up, should be covered under your warranty.
 

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Were it the bulb it won't be warranty since they can wear out!!! mind you how old can it be ?i think they are being very mean here.However it must be warranty since it is not t h e bulb. Get back to the dealer and be firm!
 

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Exactly. A bulb burning out... meh, it happens. Any other cause points more to faulty wiring or assembly. Could be as simple as a loose connection or it could point to something more. Either way, that's on them. I wouldn't drive 100 miles over a bulb, but I'm not going to run a wire trace on my time for a brand new car.
 

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I replaced the light yesterday, but it still doesnt turn on. So I'd have to make the assumption that it's a fuse. So I'm gonna check it out today and try to do the fuse myself.
OK, then it's an electrical fault. There might be a loose wire someplace, or the fuse is blown.

If the fuse is not blown, then you probably have a loose connector. My guess would be at the point where the power wires connect to the light fixture. Try wiggling the wires there and see if the light comes on. If it does, then you can try re-seating the power connector. If it doesn't, then the fault lies somewhere further upstream in the wiring harness. The way to troubleshoot is to verify every connector all the way back to the battery.

If that doesn't work, you might have a bad wire.

Fuses blow to protect the circuit from excessive current. If there were no fuse, then the wire could heat up to the point that it ignites nearby flammable material (like insulation) and that's never a good thing.

If the fuse is blown, I would be worried. The likely cause is a short to ground, which means you have a bare wire somewhere touching something it shouldn't. Replacing the fuse will likely be a temporary fix. I would personally want to know why the fuse blew, and not just put a new one in and hope for the best.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
OK, then it's an electrical fault. There might be a loose wire someplace, or the fuse is blown.

If the fuse is not blown, then you probably have a loose connector. My guess would be at the point where the power wires connect to the light fixture. Try wiggling the wires there and see if the light comes on. If it does, then you can try re-seating the power connector. If it doesn't, then the fault lies somewhere further upstream in the wiring harness. The way to troubleshoot is to verify every connector all the way back to the battery.

If that doesn't work, you might have a bad wire.

Fuses blow to protect the circuit from excessive current. If there were no fuse, then the wire could heat up to the point that it ignites nearby flammable material (like insulation) and that's never a good thing.

If the fuse is blown, I would be worried. The likely cause is a short to ground, which means you have a bare wire somewhere touching something it shouldn't. Replacing the fuse will likely be a temporary fix. I would personally want to know why the fuse blew, and not just put a new one in and hope for the best.
Well, I was attempting to wire my REMUS exhaust, and I touched the wire to the negative terminal of the light fixture (accident because it was hard to manage). So judging by what you said, it honestly sounds like I blew a fuse. So I guess I'll try to replace it, and if that doesn't work...off to the dealership I go :(
 

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Well, I was attempting to wire my REMUS exhaust, and I touched the wire to the negative terminal of the light fixture (accident because it was hard to manage). So judging by what you said, it honestly sounds like I blew a fuse. So I guess I'll try to replace it, and if that doesn't work...off to the dealership I go :(
Oops.

I think it's more likely you touched the positive, since that's the fused wire. Or shorting positive and negative will do it.

All praise fuses! Best thing ever invented.
 
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