Wiring Diagram
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
I am looking to upgrade the standard speaker system and need to understand how the stereo is wired.
I am keeping the stock head unit and converting the source signals to pre outs via an audiocontrol LCQ 1 but need to know weather the singal lines are all full range or if the door speaker and under seat subs are wired at different frequencies.
I also want to understand the colour coding of the wires so they can be identified.
Thanks
I am keeping the stock head unit and converting the source signals to pre outs via an audiocontrol LCQ 1 but need to know weather the singal lines are all full range or if the door speaker and under seat subs are wired at different frequencies.
I also want to understand the colour coding of the wires so they can be identified.
Thanks
I also considered the LCQ-1 before deciding to go with a DSP. I found the LCQ-1 (on paper) to have less EQ parameters than needed to get rid of the horrible factory EQ-ing. Factory EQ is really boosted around 2500-4000hz to make the stock speakers sound good and the LCQ-1 has adjustment for 2Khz and 8Khz... Might work ok, but I decided to go another route.
The underseat woofers are fullrange and are parallelly connected with the front door speakers to make the total amp-load 2ohm (booth door speakers and under seat woofers are 4ohm).
Easiest is to take the signal at the under seat woofer connection, run it back to the boot where you have the LCQ-1 and amps. And then run speaker cables back to the the same place to connect the upgrded under seat woofer and door separately.
Once you remove the seat and speaker grill to access the speaker wiring it will be very obvious how to connect it, you dont need to know the colors of the specific wires.
Im running an Audison AP 8.9 DSP with built in 8 channel amp. Earthquake SWS 8Xi under seat subs, Helix Coaxials and a Hertz 10" sub.
I did not want to spend 250 euros a piece for the HK A-pillar covers (for tweeters), and did not want to cut up the interior to mount separate tweeters and went with coaxials which i regret slightly now. Might upgrade to components up front.
The underseat woofers are fullrange and are parallelly connected with the front door speakers to make the total amp-load 2ohm (booth door speakers and under seat woofers are 4ohm).
Easiest is to take the signal at the under seat woofer connection, run it back to the boot where you have the LCQ-1 and amps. And then run speaker cables back to the the same place to connect the upgrded under seat woofer and door separately.
Once you remove the seat and speaker grill to access the speaker wiring it will be very obvious how to connect it, you dont need to know the colors of the specific wires.
Im running an Audison AP 8.9 DSP with built in 8 channel amp. Earthquake SWS 8Xi under seat subs, Helix Coaxials and a Hertz 10" sub.
I did not want to spend 250 euros a piece for the HK A-pillar covers (for tweeters), and did not want to cut up the interior to mount separate tweeters and went with coaxials which i regret slightly now. Might upgrade to components up front.
thanks for the info.
I already had the LCQ-1 so didn't want to change it. I am thinking of buying a spare set of A pillars, not the HK ones and cutting in my own tweeters. If needed I can then replace with the original pillars if I remove the system.
The sound quality from components is always much better from experience.
Thanks again.
I already had the LCQ-1 so didn't want to change it. I am thinking of buying a spare set of A pillars, not the HK ones and cutting in my own tweeters. If needed I can then replace with the original pillars if I remove the system.
The sound quality from components is always much better from experience.
Thanks again.
Joined
·
197 Posts
I realise this is an old thread but it is the most useful I have found. I have an Audison AP 5.9 and would like to know where you picked up the cables into the doors for the midrange.
Hi guys - I have installed the Audison 8.9 with Audison subs, mids and tweets and it is a big improvement. The only area I question is the wiring for the sub and mids. All the bass is coming into the doors unfortunately and not been able to split this out using the bit software. I do wonder if (like mentioned above) I should run new cables to the mids and split the signals. The subs have been bridged using 4 channels, I have used 2 for the tweets and have a spare 2 I can use for the mids. The rear are using the factory head unit and offer little on quality tbh. Have I answered my own question or should I spend some money on getting this tuned using the Audison equipment? Thanks
Joined
·
197 Posts
We should be able to get to the bottom of this. First of all where are you picking up the feed for the amp? Also do you mean there is too much bass for the doors or do you mean the subs aren't working? Or both?
I will follow this, revitalized, thread with great interest as I am about to oboard as well on the audio-upgrade voyage. We have a F55 with base audio and the 'simple' HU. I want to install:
Unfortunately through this thread and others, also on other fora, I learned under seat woofers and mid-ranges in the front doors are parallely connected on a single cable coming from the HU. This increases the challenge a little. I'm now looking for ideas how to setup now. I don't wanna send the unfiltered signals to the underseats so am hoping to be able to either actively or otherwise passively filter the underseat woofers and still be able to send a full signal to the MB Quart in the doors which I can filter with the cross-over's. Would this be possible?
- MB Quart QM100c BMW (front)
- MB Quart QM100x BMW (rear)
- MB Quart QM-200 BWM (under seat)
- BLAM RA 704 DSP PRO
Unfortunately through this thread and others, also on other fora, I learned under seat woofers and mid-ranges in the front doors are parallely connected on a single cable coming from the HU. This increases the challenge a little. I'm now looking for ideas how to setup now. I don't wanna send the unfiltered signals to the underseats so am hoping to be able to either actively or otherwise passively filter the underseat woofers and still be able to send a full signal to the MB Quart in the doors which I can filter with the cross-over's. Would this be possible?
Joined
·
197 Posts
How many input channels do you have into the DSP? The fronts are easy take the feed that goes to the sub's connector and send that to your DSP. It is at the plug where the parallel connection to the doors are made. So the DSP then outputs one channel for the sub and outputs a second channel for the door. After amplification you can install the cross-overs and connect the mid output to the old door connection and connect the tweeter output to a long wire and feed it up to the a-pillar. My cross-overs are under the seats plenty of room there. In my F56 my Audison F5.9 (Amp/DSP) it creates a centre channel so I also took long wires from the F5.9 to the dash for centre speakers. I had to buy (cheap ebay) a new fressh air grill, probably part nr 64229262803 for your F55 if you wish do the same. I don't like rear channels so I left it connected to the head unit, the rear speakers are so quiet they don't interfere. For you finding the cable that feeds the rear door speakers may be tough. One final point I connected both subs in parallel to lower to 2 ohms which increase the F5.9 power from 150 to 270 watts.
Thank you for the input. I haven't yet installed nor designed the system. My original aim was to make a simple, clean, upgrade to the system by installing an ISO amp or IS AMP/DSP and make use of existing cables. I have already installed the Mini Click and Drive system as the F55 doesn't have the factory navi. I learned there might be enough space to ad an ISO-amp and connect through quad-lock etc. Now I learned the under seats and mid ranges unfortunately are in parallel which makes live more challenging. If I want to continue as I planned I will end up running a small class D amp on 2 Ohms and I guess that's not going to work. Also I don't wanna end up with new 8" under seats that aren't filtered properly. So I now understand I can make use of existing wiring but still need to add extra and either drive the woofers separately from the new combo's or find a 2 Ohm stable amp. It will be probably the first.
The question now is how will I use both channels from the amp/dsp to drive the 'front' speakers with only one front (high) input. Or could I indeed consider the under seats to be subs and drive them as such.What I do understand from you message is that it will be possible to connect to existing wiring for under seats and mid-ranges with separate input from the amp is that correct?
Ultimately I would like to replace also the back door mid-ranges by coaxials also from MB Quart and use the AMP/DSP to drive them as well. This implies however I am in need for a 6-channel amp or a 5-channel including a channel which can drive both under seats as subs. Perhaps a separate amp would be better... But here we go again; I'm now coming into territory I didn't want to go to in the first place as I completely need to strip the car and ad a lot of extra wiring and amps....
The question now is how will I use both channels from the amp/dsp to drive the 'front' speakers with only one front (high) input. Or could I indeed consider the under seats to be subs and drive them as such.What I do understand from you message is that it will be possible to connect to existing wiring for under seats and mid-ranges with separate input from the amp is that correct?
Ultimately I would like to replace also the back door mid-ranges by coaxials also from MB Quart and use the AMP/DSP to drive them as well. This implies however I am in need for a 6-channel amp or a 5-channel including a channel which can drive both under seats as subs. Perhaps a separate amp would be better... But here we go again; I'm now coming into territory I didn't want to go to in the first place as I completely need to strip the car and ad a lot of extra wiring and amps....
Joined
·
197 Posts
To keep it simpler you could ignore the rears, use a 4 ohm 3/4 channel amp that has high level input and has built in crossovers. Then replace the door speakers with co-axials. Subs do need changing and will be the most expensive parts. They won't be true subs no matter what it says on the box but a big improvement. You don't need a lot of sound deadening in the doors one medium size piece will dampen the whole panel. It would be good if the amp has auto turn on as well.
Is it possible to passively filter the under seats? I could see this working; add an extra under seat filter between woofer connector and woofer, connect the in-doors to the original connector by the passive filter and end up with a 2 Ohm parallel set in the front. There are many examples of ISO-AMP/DSP's supporting 2 Ohm. I could then plug it in between the HU and the quad lock and presto! More dynamics, better base and no big project. Question is how to fabricate a passive filter for the woofer and how to connect it.
Hello all i hope you are all ok?
I havs a 2016 SD and love it apart from the audio, like everyone else i have the basic 4 and 2, iv read loads of things about upgrading speaker's, amp's etc, anything that is done is going to cost lots of time and effort so why can't we just add the speakers and a hk amp with all the wires and change the visual boost head unit to a hk one??? Can it be done this simply or is there coding and other stuph that need a pro? Does anyone know exactly what is needed other than the obvious. How much would it be to take it into a dealers to get this all done?
Im asking as there is no definite answer i can see personally iv got no problem with electronics running wires etc but just need real definate answers
I havs a 2016 SD and love it apart from the audio, like everyone else i have the basic 4 and 2, iv read loads of things about upgrading speaker's, amp's etc, anything that is done is going to cost lots of time and effort so why can't we just add the speakers and a hk amp with all the wires and change the visual boost head unit to a hk one??? Can it be done this simply or is there coding and other stuph that need a pro? Does anyone know exactly what is needed other than the obvious. How much would it be to take it into a dealers to get this all done?
Im asking as there is no definite answer i can see personally iv got no problem with electronics running wires etc but just need real definate answers
Joined
·
197 Posts
It is easier and cheaper to upgrade to a new amp and speakers than to try to go the HK route when you will need a full set of HK speakers, HK amp and wiring from head unit to amp and amp to speakers. Go to the dealers and get a quote and go to an aftermarket installer and get a quote from there. Then you will have the definite answer you want.
I see what you mean but even with after market speakers, amp and wiring which is expected as the stock speakers especially are not that good.
I found a diagram last night that had the standard output from the headunit going to 4 mid 2 base but for the HK it only looked like the addition of the HK amp it seperated front, back and base. I will try and find it and post, but do you think that the head unit is different from the basic and HK or is it the output of the headunit can be low output for HK and direct speaker output maybe even just a different connector.
Also i hope im not coming over as an ass i just want to understand how the system works
I found a diagram last night that had the standard output from the headunit going to 4 mid 2 base but for the HK it only looked like the addition of the HK amp it seperated front, back and base. I will try and find it and post, but do you think that the head unit is different from the basic and HK or is it the output of the headunit can be low output for HK and direct speaker output maybe even just a different connector.
Also i hope im not coming over as an ass i just want to understand how the system works
Joined
·
197 Posts
For the base and Visual Boost there is an amp in the head unit that drives all the speakers with a full range signal. You can replace just the speakers but need to be wary that the overlap between the speakers will be different. May be not enough to matter, may turn out to be better and may be it will be worse. You just don't know. You could just add an amp to drive the existing speakers, make sure it has a high/low crossover on all four/five channels. I'd recommend 120Hz as the mids are only 4". Don't try a passive crossover on the subs, poor results and difficult to wire. The result may not justify the cost of the amp.
For HK the h/u signal is sent to a separate amp that has a different channel per speaker. It has fixed equalisation for each speaker so you need to instal the HK amp and HK speakers as a set.
For HK the h/u signal is sent to a separate amp that has a different channel per speaker. It has fixed equalisation for each speaker so you need to instal the HK amp and HK speakers as a set.
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
