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F56 Guide - How to change your spark plugs

44K views 18 replies 8 participants last post by  mvt888  
#1 · (Edited)
Hi all, thought I would publish this quick guide on how to change spark plug on your F56.


Details on the plugs I used in the UK for my Cooper S F56:

The newer NGK BMW part number is 12 12 0 040 551 for the individuals. The NGK number is SILZKGR8B8S.

BMW also supply champion plugs in the same box with the same part number as the NGK, guidance I have been given is that the champion plugs are an inferior product and you really want the NGK plugs. Please ensure that you check with your supplier that they are providing the NGK's.

Tools Required:
8mm star socket
14mm bi-hex spark plug socket
wrench and extender bar for the above
 
#5 ·
That's correct

Helpful when the time comes.....no anti-seize on the new plugs though? I always do that!
Nope never used anti-seize on spark plugs and NGK recommend against that: https://www.ngksparkplugs.com/about-ngk/spark-plug-101/5-things-you-should-know-about-spark-plugs

NGK spark plugs are installed at the factory dry, without the use of anti-seize. NGK tech support has received a number of tech calls from installers who have over-tightened spark plugs because of the use of anti-seize. Anti-seize compound can act as a lubricant altering torque values up to 20 percent, increasing the risk of spark plug thread breakage.
 
#4 ·
Helpful when the time comes.....no anti-seize on the new plugs though? I always do that!
 
#7 ·
I personally, in my opinion, try to avoid using anti-seize on anything that is aluminum, or attached to anything aluminum, unless it specifically calls for it in the service manual (since it has a tendency to stretch really easily, and it becomes really expensive to replace/repair).
 
#8 ·
Well, use of anti-seize is optional I suppose. All my BMW's have aluminum heads & I can promise you that I would have had a lot of stuck spark plugs over the years without anti-seize. It's true torque values will be off a bit but I didn't see a torque wrench in that video. Torque on spark plugs is not critical...just need to be tight! Just a very light coat will help prevent seizing. Works great in lugs for wheels also. Very helpful video though.
 
#9 ·
Works great in lugs for wheels also.
Be REALLY careful when you use anti sieze on wheel lugs. You can easily overtighten those, which causes the bolt to stretch, which is not good.
 
#11 ·
Mmm I've always used a spot of copper grease on wheel lugs. Got me worried now. Never have in plugs though my brother wished they had in his mondeo. One seized and it was a heck of a job eventually regular soakings with a penetrating oil over a month did it but it was heart in mouth time! A main dealer serviced it and didn't bother!? To change them so thyeyd done double time. Nearly no electrode left!
 
#16 ·
Every two oil changing..............which means 370500 miles.
I tried to do it this afternoon as I've reach this mileage.
Unfortunately, I think BMW has done everything possible to not let you work on this car by yourself.
Every operation needs a special tool :mad:
And the spark plug socket I have bought seems to be too thick !!
Has somebody tried this one and is it OK ( it's written yes, anyway ) ??
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben-parts/14mm-deep-well-spark-plug-socket-3-8-drive/001247sch01a/

Thank you ;)
 
#18 ·
Hi Boubi, that socket is the one you need. I had to buy one when I was changing my plugs as well. Newer Nissan cars also use the same socket.

As far as the plug change interval, my dealer told me 60,000 miles/100,000 km for a stock car. Change sooner if car is tuned. Anyway, plugs are cheap and changing it earlier wouldn't hurt.
I had mine changed at 15,000 km to BMW Hi-Power plugs for Bytetronik stage 1 reflash and the old plugs were still in very good condition.