Hi all, here's another mod that nobody has done on our UKL2 platform and honestly it's much needed for the front end... Especially If you take your car to the track once every few months like I do, then you must have wanted for more adjustability in the front. This kit does it all, and more.
To start off, I'm not a mechanical or material engineer, but I collaborated with a race team here that happens to build race cars with in house CNC and lath. They had previously studied Porsche's MacPherson and designed lower control arms and toe arms for MCS and JCW F56 which shares the same architecture but on a smaller chassis. So we basically transferred the same principle and enlarged the arms to make them fit our cars (F40/F44/F48/F52/F54/F60).
The lower control arms, tie rods and bracket holders are all CNC for strength and longevity, with optimal shavings for weight reduction. The toe arm is a welded stainless steel tube since it doesn't carry much load. This entire kit complete eliminates the use of rubber bushing with solid ball bearing.
I've been testing this kit alongside KW CS for over a year both on road and track, under all weather conditions (rain, snow/salt) and from -20 to 40 plus Celsius. I experienced minimum increase in NV
H from the kit alone compared to stock. The car turns like a heavier go kart, precise and agile with no bump or torque steer. It stops on a dime with zero sloppiness. That being said, my car has much beefier solid sway bars (non-adjustable 28mm + 25mm), power flex upper and lower engine and transmission bushings (black version 95A) and a ton of chassis brace. I'll do a review separately in another post, but the ball bearings really tightened them up and make everything work much better, and you definitely notice it when turning, accelerating and stopping under heavy load.
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I had 2 alignments done on this set up, progressively dialling up the aggressiveness. The first alignment had 1.4 and 1.5 negative camber front and rear, and I noticed a lot of tire wear closer to the sidewall so I added more than half a degree to make up the spec now (see pic). With everything adjustable, I was also able to increase the track width by around 30mm front and rear and shorten the wheelbase by 10mm. It's not perfect, the car still needs more front toe out, but that's how it usually goes ;p
![Image]()
![Image]()
If you're worried about the headlight level sensor, the mounting location was scanned and pre-drilled during production. I bought a "Z" shaped bracket from my local hardware store and frankensteined a solution with spacers. Not the prettiest thing I know, but it works.
![Image]()
Thank you and as always, ask me anything
![Image]()
To start off, I'm not a mechanical or material engineer, but I collaborated with a race team here that happens to build race cars with in house CNC and lath. They had previously studied Porsche's MacPherson and designed lower control arms and toe arms for MCS and JCW F56 which shares the same architecture but on a smaller chassis. So we basically transferred the same principle and enlarged the arms to make them fit our cars (F40/F44/F48/F52/F54/F60).
The lower control arms, tie rods and bracket holders are all CNC for strength and longevity, with optimal shavings for weight reduction. The toe arm is a welded stainless steel tube since it doesn't carry much load. This entire kit complete eliminates the use of rubber bushing with solid ball bearing.
I've been testing this kit alongside KW CS for over a year both on road and track, under all weather conditions (rain, snow/salt) and from -20 to 40 plus Celsius. I experienced minimum increase in NV
H from the kit alone compared to stock. The car turns like a heavier go kart, precise and agile with no bump or torque steer. It stops on a dime with zero sloppiness. That being said, my car has much beefier solid sway bars (non-adjustable 28mm + 25mm), power flex upper and lower engine and transmission bushings (black version 95A) and a ton of chassis brace. I'll do a review separately in another post, but the ball bearings really tightened them up and make everything work much better, and you definitely notice it when turning, accelerating and stopping under heavy load.
I had 2 alignments done on this set up, progressively dialling up the aggressiveness. The first alignment had 1.4 and 1.5 negative camber front and rear, and I noticed a lot of tire wear closer to the sidewall so I added more than half a degree to make up the spec now (see pic). With everything adjustable, I was also able to increase the track width by around 30mm front and rear and shorten the wheelbase by 10mm. It's not perfect, the car still needs more front toe out, but that's how it usually goes ;p
If you're worried about the headlight level sensor, the mounting location was scanned and pre-drilled during production. I bought a "Z" shaped bracket from my local hardware store and frankensteined a solution with spacers. Not the prettiest thing I know, but it works.
Thank you and as always, ask me anything
