[neil_short2]

Hi I have the same issue, drivers side blowing cold, the heater blend flap error on ISTA+ is "mixing flap drive right specification of desired position failed" so i removed swapped and re-addressed OK, but it failed calibration, so i removed and spun by hand it felt OK, but oddly spinning it by hand had 0 effects on hot/cold air... (PPS the right blend door actuator according to haynes and ISTA is the lowest one of the three)

So i can only conclude the blend door itself has fell of or broken inside the heater box Oddly i did note the 2nd actuator (middle) i think this is the direction flap door was replaced by the previous owner?

I am going to run an endoscope thru the micro filter (cabin air filter) slot and see if i can see whats going on.

2nd option is to try and hack the box in-situ so the passenger side and drivers side are connected and blow the same heat? No idea if this is possible? Or try and fix the blend door flap? drill a big hole fix it and then patch back up?

Did you resolve this? I’m facing the same issue and I’m looking at replacing the actuator. Thanks

 

[yuha_2000]

Did you resolve this? I’m facing the same issue and I’m looking at replacing the actuator. Thanks

No.... But before you buy an expensive actuator... Remove the actuator, get the car hot and try actuation by hand, see if you get hot air... If you do you are lucky, you can buy an actuator, re-adresss and calibrate it... If you dont then it's a 2k bill to swap the heater box

 

[yuha_2000]

Did you resolve this? I’m facing the same issue and I’m looking at replacing the actuator. Thanks

Let me know how u get on with yours... I just wear a coat and hat when driving it's easier and cheaper!!

 

[corriganl]

I have the same issue. My DTC indicated a defective air mix actuator right side. I took it off and actuated the mix door manually. I was able to cycle from hot to cold this way.
I paid about $200 for a new actuator. Auto addressed it and like above, it fails calibration. I see the following DTC 801189 and I have to assume it is wiring issue or my 8 year old battery.
I did check the battery voltage and it fluctuates between 12.5 and 14 V.

 

[yuha_2000]

I have the same issue. My DTC indicated a defective air mix actuator right side. I took it off and actuated the mix door manually. I was able to cycle from hot to cold this way.
I paid about $200 for a new actuator. Auto addressed it and like above, it fails calibration. I see the following DTC 801189 and I have to assume it is wiring issue or my 8 year old battery.
I did check the battery voltage and it fluctuates between 12.5 and 14 V.

Hmmm that sounds odd.... I'd just operate it by hand! Fit a knob/dial on the end!

 

[neil_short2]

I get hot air out of the drivers side about 40% of the time. So it’s definitely capable of blowing the hot air through. What’s involved in readdressing it and calibrating it? I was hoping I could fit a new actuator and the car would do the rest! I’m guessing I’m not that lucky? Thanks

 

[corriganl]

Sadly not that easy. You need a BMW specific bi-directional scan tool to perform those two functions.

 

[corriganl]

I might be one of the few who also has another chronic Mini issue with auto transmission. The good old Shift Solinoid spring problem that sends a false error saying the car is not in park...secure vehicle from rolling.
When I remove the center console to repair that I will also disconnect, inspect and clean all the wiring to all actuators. They are wired in series so you must keep that in mind. I don't have the wiring diagram so I will just attack them all .

 

[yuha_2000]

I get hot air out of the drivers side about 40% of the time. So it’s definitely capable of blowing the hot air through. What’s involved in readdressing it and calibrating it? I was hoping I could fit a new actuator and the car would do the rest! I’m guessing I’m not that lucky? Thanks

I'd say buy ista+ and a cable (BMW dealer diagnostics)... Or take it a specialist/ dealer....


BUT verify first it's the actuator... It's the lowest one on the drivers side.. whip is off and actuate by hand and see if you get hot air

 

[Willr44]

Hi Georgii,

I was looking at your post ref the stepper motor replacement in the IHKA unit of the Mini.
I seems to have a similar problem but replacement of the motor (plus programming) did not solve the issue.
Do you have any way to look at the flaps without removing the whole dash? Is the IHKA unit serviceable at all or you need to buy a new one?

Hi did you have to get the new motor programmed as i have replaced mine with a new motor but BMW said its a plug and play part

 

[mightymini68]

Hi did you have to get the new motor programmed as i have replaced mine with a new motor but BMW said its a plug and play part

needs re-addressing and re-calibrating using dealer software

 

[corriganl]

needs re-addressing and re-calibrating using dealer software.

I can confirm that too. My new part would not operate until performed addressing. I used my BMW bidirectional scan tool

 

[Sue Mac]

My mini has the same problem. I passed an inspection camera through the foot well vent to observe the blend flap passing through the flap orifice and resting against the evaporator also the stop on the link shaft was splitting. the linkage seemed to be okay and the actuator runs.
i fabricated a clamp ring made from aluminium which i mounted on the shaft just behind the actuator which enabled the shaft to stall when the actuator calibrated at start up.
the heater blend is working with no faults and has been for 3 months.
Repair modification cost ~£5.

 

[Mmmmmmini]

I ended up selling it back to the garage because I didn’t have the time to be in garages and stuck at the roadside with a cold car that won’t start and if it did, it was limping. Lost a fair chunk of cash but even the clutch started getting troublesome and by that point I’d had it. The boffins at the mini specialists I’d been to all came to the same conclusion and diagnostic fees were just mounting up. Even daft stuff like the cigarette lighter kept going pop was just inconvenience you don’t need when you’re working 70 odd hours a week. Never again… lol

good luck fixing all yours

 

[neil_short2]

I can confirm that too. My new part would not operate until performed addressing. I used my BMW bidirectional scan tool

I’m trying to work out what scan tool will perform these functions? Which one do you use? Does anyone have any experience of the icarsoft v3 for bmw/mini?

 

[MarkTM3]

I have also been blessed with this issue. I have just got on with it for almost a year now.

The shaft on one of my doors snapped and fell into the black housing

I have ordered a replacements from an almost new F56 of eBay. Inc. Regulator, Matrix, x4 Servo, x2 Internal termp sensors, and the air quality sensor.

Is there supposed to be a temp sensor in the drivers foot well? Lowest blow hole? I Seem to have the cut out but no sensor, like the passenger side.

Did you ever end up finding a way to retrieve the shaft? Is it even supposed to move back and forth?

 

[Elafs]

My mini has the same problem. I passed an inspection camera through the foot well vent to observe the blend flap passing through the flap orifice and resting against the evaporator also the stop on the link shaft was splitting. the linkage seemed to be okay and the actuator runs.
i fabricated a clamp ring made from aluminium which i mounted on the shaft just behind the actuator which enabled the shaft to stall when the actuator calibrated at start up.
the heater blend is working with no faults and has been for 3 months.
Repair modification cost ~£5.

View attachment 83483

Hi there , I’ve come across your post regarding the intermittent cold air issue on driver side , seems like you managed to repair it . Did your repair last ? Any how to guide on repairing it pls would be appreciated

 

[geoff.ainsley]

My mini has the same problem. I passed an inspection camera through the foot well vent to observe the blend flap passing through the flap orifice and resting against the evaporator also the stop on the link shaft was splitting. the linkage seemed to be okay and the actuator runs. i fabricated a clamp ring made from aluminium which i mounted on the shaft just behind the actuator which enabled the shaft to stall when the actuator calibrated at start up. the heater blend is working with no faults and has been for 3 months. Repair modification cost ~£5. View attachment 83483

can u come fix mine 😂👍

 

[Elafs]

can u come fix mine 😂👍

Not the easiest guide to follow is it🤣

 

[Air-mech]

Not the easiest guide to follow is it🤣

I had same issue on my wife Mini SE.
I made an adapter and shaft extension with stops on a 3d printer, Until now have it fixed the problem (only running on third week). As I see it do we get the fault because a stop is broken off inside the heater box, that causes the actuator to travel too many degrees and that gives the fault code.
I checked inside the heater box with a camera and the flap traveled past closed position.