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Drivers side heater blowing cold

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cold heater coolant heater mini heater
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#41 ·
Air-mech said:
I had same issue on my wife Mini SE.
I made an adapter and shaft extension with stops on a 3d printer, Until now have it fixed the problem (only running on third week). As I see it do we get the fault because a stop is broken off inside the heater box, that causes the actuator to travel too many degrees and that gives the fault code.
I checked inside the heater box with a camera and the flap traveled past closed position.
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Any chance of a video on what you done and how you got to the part pls
 
#42 ·
Elafs said:
Any chance of a video on what you done and how you got to the part pls
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I will try to put some information together for you. I removed the actuator (2 screws) added my two 3d printed parts installed the actuator with two longer screws and installed two panels and the glove compartment again (we have the steering wheel in the left side)
But I spent many hours drawing the parts to be able to print them. - I never been good at drawing 3d parts.
I will take some pictures of the parts.
 
#43 ·
Air-mech said:
I will try to put some information together for you. I removed the actuator (2 screws) added my two 3d printed parts installed the actuator with two longer screws and installed two panels and the glove compartment again (we have the steering wheel in the left side)
But I spent many hours drawing the parts to be able to print them. - I never been good at drawing 3d parts.
I will take some pictures of the parts.
Click to expand...
I would really appreciate it if you could. My mini is right hand drive , drivers side cold probably 60-70% of the time , so I know it is able to heat up .
 
#44 ·
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Elafs said:
I would really appreciate it if you could. My mini is right hand drive , drivers side cold probably 60-70% of the time , so I know it is able to heat up .
Click to expand...
It sounds like my wife's mini problem - cold wife is not a happy wife... I have added the pictures, my idea was to add the broken stops by adding this adapter and axle. If you're interested can I check what it will cost to ship a set to you?
 
#49 ·
Elafs said:
Appreciate your help , wanted to know how do I get to that part on the car?
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Ok, I will send some pictures this weekend, but the actuator is in front of the outlet for your feet heating, I need to remove the glove box, a panel below and in front of the glove box and the panel with the hole for feet heating. Around 8 screws. Then will you have access to three actuators it is the lowest one controlling the temperature. But this is on a car with the steering wheel in the left side so you need to get the trim off under your steering wheel.
 
#51 ·
Hi , I tried to locate that part but couldn’t see how to get to it , can you send over some photos or small video clip . My car is right hand drive . Your help would be appreciated
 
#52 ·
Sue Mac said:
My mini has the same problem. I passed an inspection camera through the foot well vent to observe the blend flap passing through the flap orifice and resting against the evaporator also the stop on the link shaft was splitting. the linkage seemed to be okay and the actuator runs.
i fabricated a clamp ring made from aluminium which i mounted on the shaft just behind the actuator which enabled the shaft to stall when the actuator calibrated at start up.
the heater blend is working with no faults and has been for 3 months.
Repair modification cost ~£5.

View attachment 83483
Click to expand...
Good morning,

read with great interest about your heater flap repair, I really need to do this....

Can you provide more details, pictures etc, especially access, how you fitted the clamp, position etc. I'm not very good hands on, hence I need some help and I can't afford the quoted £2000 to replace the heater box.....PLEASE help?

Andy
 
#53 ·
Hi Andy

My steering wheel is installed in the left side of the car, so my access will be different to yours. To get access will I remove the glove box (5 screws), a plastic panels below the glove box (2 screws) then a side panel on the lower part of the center console (1 or 2 screws) now will I have access to the actuator the lowest on the heater box. There are three identical actuators on the right side of the heater box. The one you want is the lowest one.
The actuator have one electric connector and is installed with two screws.
When removed should you be able to turn the shaft going into the actuator, this will change the temperature of the air comming out of the vents.
If the range you can turn the shaft is small is the flap inside the heater box on the worng side of the stops, and you'll need to get the flap on the other side, I did it by connecting the actuator and let it move it. You need a lot of torque to get it pass the stop. Normal turning range is around 65 to 75 degrees.
A temporarily fix is to turn to warm and install the actuator without connecting the electrical connector.

I will see if I can get some pictures for you but I'm pressed for time - so no promises.
 
#54 ·
I found on Ebay a heater box with pictures Link - The picture below shows the actuator with the green arrow is the Actuator controlling the temperature.

My fix is then installed by removing the actuator installing a shaft and the adapter and then reinstalling the actuator with longer screws.

Image
 
#55 ·
Thank you...

I understand most of it, I started by fitting a new actuator, the old one looked fine as did the shaft coming out of the airbox, the new actuator made no difference and would not calibrate. In addition, the movement on the shaft from the box is very slight which would back up what you state about the internal flap been the wrong side of the stop....

Does your fix include a new internal shaft, if so how do you fit it? Or do you fit a longer shaft to the actuator? I don't understand how this would fix the issue? Is it possible you could send me the parts required, for a cost of course?

Your time is much appriciated !!!!
 
#56 ·
There are pictures of my fix higher up in this thread , but it include a shaft with an arm and the adapter under the actuator include stops for the arm - is I just add stops for the shaft instead of the broken ones inside the box.
If your shaft don't turn around the 70 degrees would I try to get the actuator to move the flap on the other side of the stop. When powering up do the actuator run a test where it his both stops - and fail if the distance traveled it to far.
I can print and send a set to you - I will find a price.
 
#57 ·
Air-mech said:
There are pictures of my fix higher up in this thread , but it include a shaft with an arm and the adapter under the actuator include stops for the arm - is I just add stops for the shaft instead of the broken ones inside the box.
If your shaft don't turn around the 70 degrees would I try to get the actuator to move the flap on the other side of the stop. When powering up do the actuator run a test where it his both stops - and fail if the distance traveled it to far.
I can print and send a set to you - I will find a price.
Click to expand...
Yes please do, happy to pay all costs !! My car is right hand drive, are the parts handed? I'm in UK, will pay shipping costs
 
#60 ·
So managed to locate that part , I took the bottom actuator off and turned the knob on the heater by hand , it turn around a 1/4 turn, my drivers side is now blowing hot , never felt it this hot before . I tried turned the temp down from the driver’s thermostat but made no difference to the temp , Ive driven the car 3 times since and still hot , I’m happy to leave it like this until the summer and then will play around with it then , I will update this week and see if it gets cold again. Not sure if the actuator is at fault or not , maybe someone else that knows can comment . Thanks for all the help in getting to this point
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Eric VERLOO
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